Kazakhstan Republican Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society

Report

on the ascent of Khan-Tengri Peak (6995 m) from the north by a team of climbers in August 1968 B. Studenin, 68

Almaty

1968

Introduction

Climbing Passport

1. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag range, 7.9
2. Peak Khan-Tengri, 6995 m, via North Ridge, 7.9.11/11a
3. Category 5B, combination
4. Route type — combined
5. Route elevation gain — 3000 m, Route length — 5000 m, Length of sections with category V difficulty — 300 m, Average slope of the wall section — 70 degrees (6500–6800 m) Average slope of the entire route — 47 degrees

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9
2. Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, via North Ridge, 7.9.11/11a
3. 5B category of difficulty, combination
4. Route type — combined
5. Route height difference — 3000 m, Route length — 5000 m, Length of 5 category sections – 300 m, Average steepness of the wall section — 70° (6500–6800 m), Average steepness of the entire route — 47°

PASSPORT

1. Category of mountaineering ascent
2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier
3. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via SSW ridge
4. 5B
5. Height difference 2505 m, length 3850 m, length of sections with category U-VI difficulty 1180 m, category VI difficulty 100 m, category V difficulty 1080 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: sections R0-R19 — 54°, sections R23-R27 — 47°, of which category VI difficulty at 80-90° — 100 m
6. Pitons used: | rock | chocks | bolt pitons | ice screws | | :--: | :----: | :---------: | :-------: | | 58 | 11 | - | 59 |

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class.
2. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier.
3. Peak Khan-Tengri via the South-Southwest ridge.
4. 5B category of difficulty, previous ascent was over 3 years ago.
5. Elevation gain — 2610 m, route length — 2840 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 2010 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 47°, including 45 m of 6 category of difficulty with 70° steepness.
6. Hooks left on the route (not removed) — none. Previously driven hooks used and not removed — none.
7. Team's climbing hours: 40 and days – 6.

Report

on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the southwest edge (MARBLE EDGE) by the team of CS DSO "Trud" led by Master of Sports B. Romanov from August 4 to 11, 1964 Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) is located in the highest part of the Central Tien Shan, in an area where the highest peaks of this mountain system are concentrated:

World Climbing Championship

2012 High-altitude class

Report

on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m via the southwestern slope and the left side of the southwestern edge, 5B category of difficulty (variant of the route by E. Kondakov, 1982) by the team from FAiS Ukraine (Ukraine-1), from August 10 to 18, 2009 Team coach: Mityukhin F. P. Team captain: Venslavovsky D. A.

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION 1973 USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP HIGH-ALTITUDE ASCENT CLASS

Report

on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the SSE ridge with access to the ridge via the counterfort of the eastern wall by the combined team of climbers from the Sports Committee of the Uzbek SSR, Tashkent 1973

1. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics

Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) is the highest point of the Tengri-Tag ridge, one of the highest in Tian Shan. The Tengri-Tag ridge, located in the upper reaches of the Inylchek River, a left tributary of the Sarydzhas River (Tarim basin), starts in the east from the Meridionalny ridge in the area of Shaater peak, and in the west it ends at the confluence of the largest Tian Shan glaciers: the Southern (59.4 km²) and Northern (35 km) Inylcheks, near Bronenosets peak. The ridge is about 40 km long and about 8 km wide. The ridge has an asymmetrical structure (its watershed is strongly shifted to the south). The snow line on the southern slopes fluctuates at around 4500 m. In the eastern part of the ridge, 10 km from its junction with the Meridionalny ridge, Khan-Tengri peak rises, a strikingly beautiful, perfect, and architecturally light summit, long considered the highest point of Tian Shan. The first information about the peak was published by an Italian expedition in 1904–1905. The Munich researcher Merczbacher made a significant contribution to the study of the area. However, it was not until 1930 that the expedition led by Pogrebetsky M.T. reached the foot of the peak, and on September 11, 1931, Pogrebetsky's group conquered the seemingly impregnable summit via the route now known as the "classic" route.

ascents made during the 1975 USSR Alpine Climbing Championship.

1. Ascent category — high-altitude.
2. Ascent region — Central Tian Shan.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations. Eastern buttress of the North face of Pik Khan-Tengri (6995 m).
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 2845 m. average steepness — 51° (5700 m). Length of the most difficult sections — 930 m.
5. Pitons driven: rock — 78, ice — 10, bolt — none.
6. Total hours of climbing — 68.5.

Report

On the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak via the eastern counterfort of the northern wall from the North Inylchek glacier. Team of the CS "Lokomotiv"

Conventions

• — — Route 1964 of the team DSO "Burevestnik"
• — — — Route 1970 of the team DSO "Lokomotiv"

I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

A. Geography of the area

Khan-Tengri peak is located in the Tengri-Tag range, the second highest range of Tian Shan. The range is stretched in the latitudinal direction and serves as a boundary between the North and South Inylchek glaciers. Khan-Tengri peak is the most significant summit in the range, noticeably standing out among other peaks. The lower part of Khan-Tengri is composed of dark-colored limestones and shales, and the upper part is made of light marble. The boundary of the rocks forming the peak is very visible on the northern wall. The North Inylchek glacier is relatively flat and less dissected in its upper part. In the area of Khan-Tengri peak, it reaches an altitude of 4000 m above sea level.