PASSPORT

1. Category of mountaineering ascent
2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier
3. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m) via SSW ridge
4. 5B
5. Height difference 2505 m, length 3850 m, length of sections with category U-VI difficulty 1180 m, category VI difficulty 100 m, category V difficulty 1080 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: sections R0-R19 — 54°, sections R23-R27 — 47°, of which category VI difficulty at 80-90° — 100 m
6. Pitons used:

7. Team's total climbing hours: 48 over 5 days
8. Overnights: 1st — semi-reclined on platforms carved into the rocky-ice ridge, 2nd + 5th (5th on descent) — on snow-ice platforms
9. Team leader: Poliak Viktor Efimovich, Candidate Master of Sports

Team members:

• Plakushchev Ivan Denisovich, Candidate Master of Sports
• Minaev Alexander Mikhailovich, Candidate Master of Sports
• Filin Vladimir Nikolaevich, Candidate Master of Sports
• Moshkin Pavel Alexandrovich, Candidate Master of Sports
• Pivovarov Valery Vasilievich, Candidate Master of Sports
• Pivovarov Viktor Vasilievich, Candidate Master of Sports

10. Coach: Poliak Viktor Efimovich
11. Approach to the route: August 9, 1987

Reached the summit: August 13, 1987 Returned: August 14, 1987

Photo from S. Inylchek glacier on August 7, 1987, 13:00. Camera: "Practika", lens: "Pancolar", focal length 50 mm, distance to the object — 3 km, shooting point No. 1 on the area diagram, height of the shooting point — 4300 m.

August 10, 1987

BRIEF OVERVIEW OF THE CLIMBING AREA

Peak Khan-Tengri, one of the highest and most famous peaks in the USSR, is located in the eastern part of the Tengri-Tag ridge. The entire area, situated near the Meridionalny ridge, represents a node of the highest elevations in the Tian-Shan mountain system. Khan-Tengri is the highest point of the Tengri-Tag ridge (6995 m, measured in 1982 as 7010 m).

There are no easy routes to the summit — all have a category 5B difficulty and are quite serious. From the north, the wall routes by Myslovsky and Studenin are well-known, and from the south, the routes by Sviridenko and Romanov. The latter two were considered by us as the main and alternative routes for the RSFSR Championship. The classic route by Pogrebetsky along the SW ridge is considered the most accessible.

Climatic conditions in the area are quite harsh. The eastern part of Central Tian-Shan (Tengri-Tag) is the most powerful glaciation node of the entire mountain system. Average temperatures here are lower than in other Tian-Shan areas, and the weather is unstable. Wind speed at high altitudes often reaches hurricane levels.

The path to the base camp on S. Inylchek glacier goes from Przhevalsk — the center of Issyk-Kul region — along a motor road through the Chon-Ashu pass (3822 m) into the Inylchek river valley and up to the Maydaadyr border post — a total of about 200 km.

From the border post to the glacier tongue is 30 km, and then along the S. Inylchek glacier — 50- 55 km.

All cargo to the base camp — the moraine under Peak Gorky — is delivered by helicopter (approximately 25 min flight), and the walk for expedition members is a good training before the summit assault.

The approach to the route goes along the S. Inylchek glacier to the turn towards the Semenovsky glacier and takes 2 hours. Here, the group camped before starting the route, and the observers' tent was located. The ascent to the ridge — the beginning of the route — takes 1.5 hours from here.

From the Semenovsky glacier axis, the lower part of the route is clearly visible — up to the ice dome. The upper part — the "marble ridge" — is well seen from a distance or from the saddle between Peak Chapayev and Peak Khan-Tengri.

Additional data on the expedition area can be obtained from expedition reports (in particular, from Odessa — 1982, Kyrgyzstan — 1981, 1985, etc.) and numerous mountaineering literature.

MAP DIAGRAM OF THE CLIMBING AREA

Scale: 1:100 000

• base camp
• photo shooting points
• observers' camp
• ascent path
• delivery and descent path

PREPARATION FOR THE ASCENT

More than 10 routes of the highest category of complexity have been established on Peak Khan-Tengri, and almost any ascent to the summit in the harsh conditions of the area requires excellent preparation and can be highly rated.

From the south, the routes by Sviridenko (SW buttress of the SSW ridge) category 6 and Romanov (SW ridge) category 5B are of the greatest interest. The upper part of both routes (the "marble ridge") coincides. Romanov's route had a category 6 for a long time.

These two routes were chosen by us as the main and alternative routes. Even before arriving at the location, we thoroughly studied the reports of Sviridenko's and other teams about their ascents on Khan-Tengri from the south. We received comprehensive consultations on the routes personally from V. Sviridenko and his team members, as well as from V. Biryukov and the head of the sports camp, B. Kuzmenko.

During the training gathering and acclimatization exit, the routes were carefully examined and photographed from various points on the glaciers.

Due to organizational difficulties (late helicopter delivery of cargo and part of the expedition to the climbing area — only on August 3), it became clear during the acclimatization exit that attempting Sviridenko's route was impractical due to the risk of not meeting the Championship deadlines (before August 15).

Therefore, special attention was given to the route along the SSW ridge. All the above served as the basis for developing the ascent tactical plan.

During the preparatory period, team members trained in their collectives according to the general physical preparation (GFP) program, participated in skiing competitions (with distances from 10 to 50 km), cross-country runs, and rock climbing competitions.

The team regularly conducted special training on complex relief, practicing passage sections using ladders.

Team members passed control standards; before the ascent for the Championship, they completed routes of categories 4-5.

Almost the entire team (6 out of 7) walked from the Maydaadyr border post to the base camp on foot as a training exercise.

PHOTO PANORAMA OF THE AREA

Photo from Semenovsky glacier on August 7, 1987, 15:00. Camera: "Practika", lens: "Pancolar", focal length 50 mm, distance to the route about 3 km, shooting point No. 1 on the area diagram, height of the shooting point 4300 m.

• team's route

ASCENT SCHEDULE

During acclimatization, the team made exits: part of the team — to the base of the "marble ridge" (approximately 6200 m) with an overnight stay at a height of 5750 m, the rest — to the saddle between Peaks Chapayev and Khan-Tengri with an overnight stay.

Safe overnight locations and possible reserve bivouacs were identified. When preparing for the ascent, special attention was paid to the quality of bivouac equipment: a lightweight high-altitude tent was made; down jackets and pants; a 4-person sleeping bag was taken on the route.

Ice equipment was prepared: 10-tooth crampons, ice axes, "ice fifis", etc.

Significant difficulties, as indicated by consultations and report studies, were expected in passing the snow-ice walls on the ridge (due to limited possibilities for organizing reliable belays) and the ice wall when exiting to the dome. As a safety measure, among other things, the work of the first participant with a shock absorber was planned. Similar difficulties with choosing belay points were expected on the "marble ridge", so rock pitons of various types were carefully selected.

TACTICAL ACTIONS OF THE TEAM

The development of ascent tactics was preceded by solving a range of organizational-tactical tasks. We list the main ones:

1. Obtaining information about the climbing area, Peak Khan-Tengri from various sources, studying the information, and evaluating it.
2. Reconnaissance of the area on site, studying the orography, paths to the summit, descent options, etc.
3. Observation and detailed study of the planned route, clarifying the nature and structure of the relief to choose the appropriate equipment.
4. Acclimatization of team members.
5. Testing new equipment in conditions close to those of the ascent. Practicing tactical elements in these conditions.
6. Choosing locations for possible bivouacs.
7. Organizing communication according to the scheme: team — observers' camp — base camp — Przhevalsk.
8. Ensuring the expedition with transport, helicopter.
9. High-quality medical support, considering the complexity of evacuation from the area.
10. Psychological preparation of team members.

Comparing information from reports and observation results allowed us to approximately establish bivouac locations and determine the heights of control points. Knowing our movement speed on different terrain, we planned overnight locations and the time required to pass key sections.

Given additional complexities due to late delivery to the area and extreme time constraints, it was crucial to correctly structure the acclimatization exit. We decided to combine the acclimatization exit with the delivery (so-called "emergency" delivery) of products and fuel to the base of the "marble ridge". This exit also allowed us to examine and determine a possible descent route for the team to Semenovsky glacier.

Acclimatization brought team members to optimal condition. Accumulated altitude experience allowed us to hope for good performance at high altitudes.

• Three team members had ascended three 7000-meter peaks each.
• Four team members had ascended two 7000-meter peaks each.

For most of the route, the nutrition regime was two meals a day: hot food and tea in the morning and evening. Twice — on the third and fourth days of the ascent (heavy work on snow) — tea was prepared during the daytime rest. Daily prolonged work was partly ensured by a careful selection of individual nutrition in separate packaging:

• raisins
• prunes
• nuts
• etc.

Considering the planned reserve days, food was taken for 8 days at a rate of 350 grams per person per day.

As planned, the load on participants was distributed evenly. The general movement scheme on the most technically complex sections of the route (R1, R2, partially R4, and R5) remained: the leading pair ensured processing and passage for the participants, and the 1st participant maintained communication with the support group (supplying pitons, food).

When organizing belays, the autonomy of the rope teams was maintained. When working on snow in R3 and R4 (and throughout the day on the entire route), timely rotation of the leaders was emphasized. On some rocky sections (R1 and R5), simultaneous movement of a rope team on pre-placed pitons was used.

The rotation schedule for the first pair was as follows:

• August 9 — Filin — Moshkin
• August 10 — Poliak — Minaev
• August 12 — Filin — Pivovarov Val.
• August 13 — Poliak — Moshkin.

On August 11, Filin, Pivovarov Val., and Pivovarov Vik. primarily worked at the front. For the rest of the days, each participant worked in the leading pair for approximately equal time.

All team members climbed with backpacks; rucksack hauling was done once — on the wall when exiting to the ice dome. On some complex sections of R1, the first participant climbed with a lightened backpack, on a double rope, with a shock absorber. There were no falls on the route. Starting from the second day, the entire route was climbed by team members wearing 10-tooth crampons, including rocky sections.

The following equipment was used:

• "Ice fifis" and ice hammers — on steep ice walls;
• Disc elements — for descent, to reduce rope wear;
• "Fishka" construction by Kashechnik — also used during descent.

Communication with observers was maintained via the "Lastochka" radio station. Observers communicated with the base camp via the "Nedra" radio station. The base camp worked with Przhevalsk using the "Groza" radio station.

The rescue team was based in the axis of Semenovsky glacier until the team's exit to the ice dome and then moved to the area between Peaks Chapayev and Khan-Tengri — the most convenient location for observation and potential assistance to the team on the "marble ridge".

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE BY SECTIONS

Section R0–R1. Ice slope of increasing steepness. Movement on front crampons. Belay via ice screws. Exit to the ridge.

Section R1–R2. Descent to the opposite side of the ridge by about 10 m and then traverse right along a ledge with a gain in height. Live rocks.

Section R2–R3. Steep, heavily destroyed rocks; main difficulty — organizing reliable belays. (Photo 5).

Section R3–R4. Inner corner with smoothed walls. (Photo 5).

Section R4–R5. Plumb wall with few holds. Very complex climbing using IT.

Section R5–R6. Rocky ridge with heavily destroyed walls. Great difficulties in organizing reliable belays.

Section R6–R7. Steep monolithic wall with a chimney. Ascent via the chimney. (Photo 6).

Section R7–R9. Rocky ridge with walls (live rocks!), then exit via snow under a steep snow-ice ascent.

Section R9–R10. Complex exit to the top of the snow-ice ascent. Cornices! Then — along the rocky-ice ridge where platforms are carved for tents.

Section R10–R11. Snow-ice ridge with ascents; passage complicated by the specific structure of ice and snow. Belay via ice screws. Difficult to find and prepare a reliable belay point on the ice slope.

Section R11–R12. Very complex rocky-ice wall with double cornices at the top. Passed from left to right, then back to the left at the top. IT used. Photo 7.

Section R12–R13. 4 ropes of snow-ice ridge lead to a merge with the ridge under the ice dome.

Section R13–R14. Snow-ice ridge with cornices. Leads to a chimney with ice and snow.

Sections R14–R16. Complex climbing via the chimney with a transition to the left side at the top, then exit via ice under the ice wall before the dome.

Section R16–R17. Exceptionally complex climbing via a crevice in the plumb ice wall. General direction — right and up. Rucksack hauling. (Photo 8).

Section R17–R18. 1 rope of very steep ice, turning into a snow slope at the top. Overnight.

Sections R18–R22. Exit to the snow-ice dome summit and then along the snow along the ridge to the base of the "marble ridge" where a cache is left.

Frequent rotation of the leader. Overnight. Platforms carved in firn.

Sections R22–R25. Bypass the lower part of the ridge along the crest to a distinctly visible rock "paw". Behind the "paw" — ascent:

• initially via steep snow,
• then — via smoothed slabs,
• exit to the ridge. Overnight.

Sections R25–R27. Movement along the ridge or slightly left of it. Difficulties with organizing belays.

Then — exit to the summit tower and the summit.

Photo 3. Technical photograph of the route from Semenovsky glacier on August 5, 1987, 14:00. Camera: "Practika", lens: "Pancolar", focal length 50 mm, distance to the object about 2 km. Shooting point No. 2 on the area diagram, height of the shooting point 4300 m.

Photo 4. Technical photograph of the upper part of the route from S. Inylchek glacier. August 4, 1987, 15:00. Camera: "Practika", lens: "Yupiter-21 M", focal length — 200 mm, distance to the object about 15 km. Shooting point No. 3 on the area diagram, height of the shooting point 4000 m. — path and cache point — path www.alpfederation.ru ↗