Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9

2. Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m, via North Ridge, 7.9.11/11a

3. 5B category of difficulty, combination

4. Route type — combined

5. Route height difference — 3000 m, Route length — 5000 m, Length of 5 category sections – 300 m, Average steepness of the wall section — 70° (6500–6800 m), Average steepness of the entire route — 47°

6. Pitons hammered on the route: total 170

   Rock 94, Ice 27, Snow 36, Chocks 13

7. Travel hours / days: 18 h / 3 days

8. Leader: Shkabarа Nikolay Vadimovich, Master of Sports

   Participant: Shkabarа Vadim Nikolayevich, 1st sports category; Stolbov Aleksandr Gennadievich, 1st sports category

9. Coach: Shkabarа Nikolay Vadimovich, Master of Sports

10. Approach to the route: 13:00 — August 13, 2003 Summit: 14:00 — August 25, 2003 Return to Base camp: 22:00 — August 15, 2003

11. Ural Air Force and Air Defense Association of Russia, military unit 10866 Photo from August 10, 2003 from North Inylchek glacier

    1. Studenin, 68 (5B)
    2. Kubomina, 64 (5B)
    3. Khudyakov, 70 (6A)
    4. Zhimin, 98 (6A)
    5. Gorbenko, 87 (6B)
    6. Pogorelov, 93 (6B)
    7. Studenin, 74 (6B)
    8. Myslovsky, 74 (6B)
    9. Redik, 90 (6A)
    10. Koroteev, 86 (6A)
    11. Zakharov, 88 (6A)
    12. Moiseev, 88 (6A)
    13. Grekov, 93 (6A)
    14. Solomatov, 74 (6B) with traverse of 6 peaks

Technical Photo of the Route

R2–R3 section Rust-colored and weathered rock belt Height 6700 Photo 1

CIS (EACC) Climbing Championship

High-altitude technical class

REPORT

on the ascent of Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m), 7.9.11a–7.9.11, 5B category of difficulty, via North Ridge, combination of Studenin (68)–Khudyakov (64) routes, team of Ural Air Force and Air Defense Association

Leader: Yu.V.Ermachek Team Coach: N.V.Shkabara

On the summit of Khan-Tengri (6995 m) August 15, 2003 14:40 In the photo from left to right: Team members: Stolbov A. — Shkabarа V. — Durov G. (A-ATA) — Leader: Shkabarа N.V.