UILPATA

R13: 100 m, 45° snow, IV R12: 300 m — 45–60° — III–IV R11: School tour 40 m — IV–III R10:

30. UILPATA via the North-Eastern Wall

(combined route, category 5A difficulty) The ascent starts from the tourist center (KSP) of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac via the Uishatinsky glacier and the Southern and North-Western glaciers. From the Vorobyevsky overnight camps (protected from avalanches and rockfalls), cross the Vorobyev glacier and approach the wide snow-and-ice couloir of the North-Eastern wall. From the glacier, ascend via an avalanche gully, bergschrund, and ice-and-snow slope, then via smooth rocks (potential rockfall) to the wall on the left side of the couloir. From the couloir, move upwards via a steep ice gully (avalanches possible). From here:

• 20 m straight up via difficult smooth rocks with few holds (artificial handholds);
• 20 m via difficult rocks straight up under the ice formations on the right;
• then traverse left along rocky balconies;
• then ascend via a vertical inner corner to an ice ledge (avalanches possible);

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. Ullarg via the Northwest Buttress by a group of climbers MOS DSO "Trud"

§ 1. Geographical description of the area and sporting characteristics of the region

The summit of Ullarg (4320 m) is located in a lateral spur of the main Caucasian ridge, beyond the peaks of Uilpata and Songuti-khokh. The peaks of Arcihevskogo and Oni-Ani follow after Ullarg. The Ullarg region is still poorly explored from the north. It is far from active camps, and there are no convenient approaches. The only relatively easy access is from the northeast, from the villages of Dunta and Komunta, along the Songuti-don river. The path from the villages of Dunta and Komunta is long and difficult to traverse. ¹

ASCENT FORM

1. Ascent category: ice-snow
2. Ascent region: Caucasus: 2.8: Genaldon River valley
3. Peak, route: Geodesist Peak (4138 m): from NE via the glacier
4. Estimated difficulty category – 3B, first ascent
5. Route description:
   • elevation gain – 500 m
   • route length – 770 m
   • length of 3B category sections – 640 m
   • average slope of the main route section – 40°

Zilga-Khokh Main via Eastern Ridge, 2B–3A category of difficulty

The summit is located in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus. The beautiful double-peaked Zilga-Khokh massif rises at the junction of the Main Watershed Ridge and the ridge of submeridional orientation, which is a continuation of the chain of Sivaraut peaks (southwestern spur of the Midagrabin horseshoe). Zilga-Khokh is directly adjacent to the peaks:

• Vatsis-Pars (3400 m) to the north,
• Kalasan (3780 m) to the east. The massif has the appearance of a paired cone with two peaks - the Main peak (3853 m) and the western peak (3820 m) - a nodal peak, reminiscent of Kamchatka volcanoes in shape. From the saddle, a small cirque glacier descends to the north with a beautiful icefall in the middle reaches. A cirque glacier, partially littered with rock debris, is located east of the massif. The streams flowing from these glaciers give rise to the Terek River, from the upper reaches of which it is most convenient to ascend to the peaks of Zilga-Khokh. The Terek River flows for about 30 km to the east, separating the Watershed and Lateral ridges of the Caucasus. The gorge is called Trussov. The gorge is notable for its abundance of narzan springs of different fountaining and mineral composition. There is even a narzan lake. This testifies to the extinct, once active, volcanic activity in the area.

Traverse of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) – Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks, 4–6 cat. diff. (approximately). The Midadgrabin glacier area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude area (to the west) and is located in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus. The highest peak in the area (and North Ossetia) is Jimarai-Khokh (4778 m). The massifs of Midadgrabin-Khokh (4040 m) and Tep-Khokh (3926 m) peaks are part of the ridge that bounds the Midadgrabin plateau from the south and branches off from Jimarai-Khokh to the west. Relief features:

• To the north, the ridge drops sharply with steep icy slopes and rocky walls.
• To the south, it drops with rocky walls. The rocks that make up the massifs of these peaks are extremely unstable, and the ridge between them is heavily destroyed and very sharp with steep drops. The traverse was first completed in September 1956 by the "Lokomotiv" group led by L. Tsypkin. It was traversed for the second time also by the "Lokomotiv" group in the same year. Classification of participants:

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Caucasus: 2,86 Genaldon river gorge
3. Peak, route: p. 4312: via N. ridge from the Maili glacier (named after Tsarakhov T.)
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B — first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1800 m, route length — 2400 m, length of sections — 4th category of difficulty — 40 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 600 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°
6. Pitons used: rock — none ice screws — 16
7. Number of climbing hours (days) — 30 (3)

Alpinist Sports Club "KASKAD"

Report

On the ascent to Tepli Glavnaya peak 4431 m from the Southwest by the couloir of the Western ridge, presumably 3B cat. diff. Variant of the route by A. ZyuziN. Tepli Glavnaya by the North-West ridge, 3B cat. diff., 1938, number in the classifier 2.8.85. Kirkitadze D.A. Dyakonov B.V.

Central Caucasus, October 2013

Climbing participants

1. Leader: Kirkitadze David Amiranovich, II sports category, Kambiileevskoe village. Address: Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, Kambiileevskoe village, Yuri Kuchiev St., 62. Phone: +7 961 822-28-22.
2. Participant: Dyakonov Boris Valerievich, II sports category, Beslan.

General Description of the Peak and its Location

The Midagrabin Plateau area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude region, located to the west in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus and is entirely within the North Ossetian ASSR. The most significant peaks in the area are giants such as:

• Jimarai-khokh
• Shau-khokh
• Suatisi-khokh
• Zeigalan-khokh
• Tsiti-khokh
• Khirkhaten

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: combined
2. Ascent area: 2.9.6 mountains of Dagestan
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Addala Eastern, 4025 m via N ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 800 m
   • average steepness — 50°
   • length of sections: III cat. diff. — 170 m, II — 690 m, I — 450 m
   • 7 ice, 2 rock, 2 screw anchors