Passport

1. High-altitude category
2. Tian-Shan, Inylchek gorge
3. Pobeda Eastern peak (7060 m) via the north face
4. Category 6B assumed, first ascent
5. Height difference 2000 m, length — 2560 m (face)
6. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories — 2540 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (5000–7000 m), including 6th category difficulty — 92° (6170–6180 m), 90° (5180–5200 m, 5830–5865 m, 6022–6040 m, 6215–6250 m, 6363–6380 m, 6945–6955 m), 80° (5055–5070 m, 5142–5160 m, 5630–5785 m, 5885–6000 m, 6930–6945 m), 75° (6965–7000 m), 70° (5800–5818 m).
7. Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

XXXV USSR Alpine Championship 1984. High-altitude Class REPORT on the ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439 m) via the north face of the eastern peak (first ascent) by the team of the USSR Armed Forces Team leader: V.N. Khrishtatyy, coach: E.T. Ilyinsky, Honored Master of Sports, Honored Coach of the USSR 1984. Addresses and phone numbers:

1. Team leader - Valery Nikolayevich Khrishtatyy
   • Address: 480021, Alma-Ata, Kurganazy St., 15, apt. 8
   • Phone: 61-27-25, p. 63-39-62 Team coach - Ervand Tikhonovich Ilyinsky
   • Address: 480012, Alma-Ata, Seyfullin St., 537, apt. 4

406

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Central Tien Shan, № 7.5.
2. Peak — Pobeda 7439 m, via the right bastion of the ice balcony on the north face.
3. Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics — combined.
5. Route description: elevation gain — 2639 m, wall section elevation gain — 1850 m, route length — 4000 m,

Federation of Alpineism of the USSR

1970 Alpinism Championship

Report

on the ascent of Peak Pobeda 7439 m via the Northern ridge (Northeastern edge) by the combined team of CS DSO “Spartak” in the category of high-altitude ascents. Leningrad 1970

I. Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

The most southerly and largest ridge of the Soviet Tian Shan is the Kokshaal-Tau ridge, along which the border between the Soviet Union and China runs. The highest section of the ridge, stretching for 115 km, constitutes the massif of Peak Pobeda, the most northerly seven-thousander on Earth (7439 m). To the north of the Chon-Teren pass, the Ak-Tau ridge branches off the Kokshaal-Tau ridge to the northwest, separating the Zvezdochka glacier and the upper reaches of the Inylchek glacier. The northern slopes of Peak Pobeda rise above the Zvezdochka glacier from the Chon-Teren pass to the Diky pass. They represent a grandiose, almost sheer rock wall with alternating belts of dark and light-colored rocks. Only on individual ledges of the ridges and in the less steep parts of the wall can ice accumulate, forming powerful hanging glaciers from which large sections of ice continually break off, crashing down in enormous avalanches.

Report

On the Ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) by the Joint Expedition of the Spartak Society and the Kazakh Alpine Club in July-August 1956

1. Description of the Area, Brief Description of Previous Ascent Attempts, and Expedition Objectives

Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) is located in the eastern Tian Shan, in the East Kok-Shaal-Tau range, along the state border between the Soviet Union and the Chinese People's Republic. The section of the range where Peak Pobeda is situated stretches latitudinally and represents a vast glaciated massif - a wall about 15 kilometers long, sharply rising above the surrounding mountains. Even the lowest parts of the wall exceed 6.5 km in height. At the foot of the northern slopes of the wall lies the Zvezdochka Glacier, a major tributary of the Inylchek Glacier. The wall rises above the Zvezdochka Glacier throughout its length by 2.5-3 km. The highest point of the massif, Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m), is located in the middle part of the massif. Here, the ridge is elevated 600-700 m above the rest of the range for about 500-600 m, with no significant changes in height along this section. On the northern slope of the wall, a prominent counterfort extends towards the Zvezdochka Glacier. To the east, the massif is bounded by the sharp and deep Chon-Tareng pass. The pass saddle is limited on the side of Peak Pobeda by a local rise in the ridge (about 6900 m), which we will conditionally refer to as the Eastern Peak of Pobeda. To the northeast of the pass lies Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m), from which a heavily dissected ridge, Ak-Tau, extends westward.

Russian Mountaineering Championship

in the high-altitude class 2018

Report

of the Rostov Region team on the ascent of Pik Pobedy Gl. (7439) from the north via the Abalakov route, 6A category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Region: Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too range
2. Peak, route: Pik Pobedy Gl. (7439) from the north (V. Abalakov route)

Pobeda Main 7439 m. Ascent via the NE buttress. Central Tian-Shan.

PASS

1. Category of altitude ascents.
2. Central Tian-Shan, Zvezdochka glacier.
3. Peak Pobeda Main via NE buttress.
4. First ascent, proposed category 5B.
5. Elevation gain — 2639 m, route length — 3870 m. Length of 6A category sections — 290 m. Average steepness of the route — 44°. Average steepness of 6A category sections: 50° (5192–5264); 70° (6026–6066); 50°, 65° (6144–6240); 60° (6608–6648); 75° (6816–6834).
6. Pitons left on the route (not removed) — none. Insurance points organized on the route:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek.
3. Ascent route: Peak Pobeda Main, via the northeastern counterfort.
4. Complexity category: proposed — 6A category, 2nd ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 2989 m (by altimeter); distance: ascent — 3650 m; descent — 4160 m. Distance of sections with 5th category complexity — 580 m; 6th category complexity — 350 m.

XVIII EAAC (CIS) Championship in Alpinism, High-Altitude Technical Class 2009 Description of the ascent to Peak Pobeda Main (7439 m) via the Northeast Counterfort, 6A category. The route was climbed by a team from FASIL St. Petersburg. Team captain: Viktor Aleksandrovich Koval. Team coach: Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov.

Ascent Passport

1. Central Tian Shan, Kokshaal-Too range, South Inylchek, section No. 7.5 of the route classifier for mountain peaks.
2. Name of the peak: Pobeda Main (7439), name of the route: via the Northeast Counterfort (V.Zhuravlev, 1990).
3. Category of complexity: 6A.
4. Nature of the route: combined.
5. Height difference on the route: 2635 m (by altimeter).

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — high-altitude
2. Ascent area — Central Tian Shan, Kokshaal-Too ridge
3. Ascent route — Pobeda Western peak (6918 m) via 3rd category route (Medzmariashvili route, 1961)
4. Technical difficulty category — 5B, combined
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2720 m; wall section height difference — 980 m; total route length — 4580 m; wall section length — 1450 m;