Report

On the ascent of peak "Kirgizstan" via the North face (claimed for the USSR Championship in the technically challenging category). And on the traverse of peak "Kirgizstan" with ascent via the North face (claimed for the Central Council Championship of the "Spartak" Volunteer Sports Society). Alma-Ata, 1963 www.alpfederation.ru

I. Introduction

The combined team of the Kazakh Republican Council of the "Spartak" Volunteer Sports Society on July 5-8, 1963, completed the ascent of peak "Kirgizstan" via the North face, claimed for the USSR Championship in the technically challenging category, and on July 1-3, they completed a traverse of the peak with ascent via the North face. Peak "Kirgizstan" is located in the upper reaches of the Salyk glacier in the Alamedin gorge, in the central part of the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range (see the Kyrgyz Ala-Too map) in the area of the Alamedin walls, very popular among climbers of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. The absolute height of the peak is 4840 m. It is the highest point of the latitudinal part of the Alamedin spur.

Report

On the ascent of peak "Kyrgyzstan" via the North face (claimed to be the first Soviet ascent of technically complex class). And on the traverse of peak "Kyrgyzstan" with ascent via the North face (claimed to be the first ascent by the Central Council of the Spartak DSO). Alma-Ata, 1963

I. Introduction

The combined team of the Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak DSO:

• July 5–8, 1963, ascended peak "Kyrgyzstan" via the North face, claimed to be the first Soviet ascent of technically complex class.
• July 1–3, traversed the peak with ascent via the North face.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Area 3. Peak, its height, ascent route 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: 6. Number of pitons for belay and descent organization: 7. Number of travel hours 8. Number of nights and their characteristics first ascent Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ala-Archa tourist center; Ak-Sai glacier cirque. v. Korona (I-st tower),

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via ice wall, 3rd cat. diff., ice-snow route. 4. Assumed category — (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 610 m. Avg. slope — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons hammered in: rock 9 placements ·18

ROUTE DIAGRAM IN SIMVOLDS, 1:5000

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Range. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via the ice wall 3 cat. complexity, ice and snow route. 4. Estimated cat. complexity — LA 5– (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. complexity — 610 m. Average steepness — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock 9, chocks 18, ice screws 110 7. Climbing hours: 14.5 hours; days — 2 8. Overnights: 1st in a hut on Uchitel glacier (processing).

Ascent report for the first ascent of the route to Pik Korona 1st Tower via the north face (ice gully).

Ascent Details

1. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa valley. Pik Korona 1st Tower, 4810 m, via the ice gully on the north face. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent. Route type: ice. Elevation gain: 800 m. Route length: 1050 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 400 m, II — 100 m, III — 350 m, IV — 100 m, V — 100 m,
3. Average slope: main part of the route — 55° Total route — 45°

Ко­ро­на (1-я), 4810 м becomes Korona (1-я), 4810 m

Ascent Passport.

1. Type of ascent: winter
2. Region of ascent: Tian-Shan.
3. Peak Korona (4855 m) from the North
4. Category of difficulty: 5B (approximate) first ascent
5. Route characteristics: route length — 1395 m, wall height difference — 900 m, average steepness of the route (bergshrund — plateau) — 64°
6. Number of pitons: rock, bolt, nut, and ice protection elements — 60

General Information about the Peak

Peak Elvira Shatayeva (5690 m) is located in one of the lateral ridges branching off from the Peter the First Ridge (Central Pamir). The peak was first conquered in 1974 by a group led by V. Shatayev. The ascent was made along the southwestern slopes of the peak from the Tanymas Glacier. In 1976, a group of Ukrainian climbers made the first ascent to the peak from the east, 25. Group composition:

• I. Kovtun V.G. — MS — leader
• Galas F. — IMS — participant
• Podgorsky V.M. — IMS — participant

4. Tkachenko V.F. — 1st category — participant
5. Okhrimenko V.N. — 1st category — participant
6. Kovtun N.P. — 1st category — participant