Peak Marshal Tukhachevsky (4020 m)

Via the Southeastern Ridge, Category III-B–IV-A

Peak Marshal Tukhachevsky (4020 m above sea level) is located in the high-mountainous Tepli group of the Lateral Ridge of the Central Caucasus. The peak is situated in the northern spur of Kolota (4168 m) between the "4010 m" peak to the south and the "4036 m" peak to the north, on the watershed of the Arkhon-Don and Tsazi-Don rivers. There is no information about ascents to the peak. A steep rocky ridge descends from the peak to the southeast, which was traversed during the first ascent by R.P. Proskuryakov's group in September 1971, made in honor of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet Guards. The path from Ordzhonikidze passes along the highway through the village of Dzuarikau and further along the Fiagdon River (Kurtatinskoye gorge) to the mouth of the Tsazi-Don River, a kilometer south of the highest village in the gorge, Kharischan. A high-clearance vehicle can drive through the village of Kharischan along the road to Arkhon Pass (Dzhimi North Pass), before which a dirt road, built by geologists, turns left into the Tsazi-Don gorge, which can save 1.5-2 hours of walking. For a kilometer, the trail winds along the right bank of the Tsazi-Don River, then crosses a bridge and continues along the left bank of the river to a dead end, past a small lake, through moraine rises - a total of 4-5 hours of walking to a convenient bivouac site in a wide hollow among the left-bank moraines near the Tsazi Glacier plateau (2900 m above sea level). Two campsites are laid out here, and a small lake is located nearby in a deep pocket between the moraines. To return to the bivouac on time, it's necessary to start the ascent no later than 4:00 AM.

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Tsatadon River gorge.
3. Peak 3664 m (Tsat); from Southeast via South Ridge.
4. Proposed — Category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 400 m, approximately 2 km long. Average slope along the route is about 30°.
6. Pitons driven:

   rock	chocks	ice screws	bolted pitons
   2	4	0	0

Description of the route condition to the summit of Shau-khokh (4636 m) via the eastern ridge, category 2B complexity. The nature of the route as of September 2015:

• snow-ice
• rock sections do not present technical difficulties.

Approaches

Get to the village of Verkhniy Koni, register at the border outpost (the summit is located in the border area, to make ascents you need to obtain a permit to enter the border zone in the established form, it's better to do this in advance), then go up to the village of Tmenikau, 2 km further up the gorge — there's a border post, this is the farthest point you can reach by car. From the border post:

• A gentle, wide trail (formerly a geological road) goes up the Genaldon gorge
• The trail leads to the warm mineral springs in front of the tongue of the Maili glacier
• This is where the base camp for ascents to Mt. Kazbek from the north is located
• There are places for tents and water

General Description of the Peak and its Location

The Midagrabin Plateau area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude region, located to the west in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus and is entirely within the North Ossetian ASSR. The most significant peaks in the area are giants such as:

• Jimarai-khokh
• Shau-khokh
• Suatisi-khokh
• Zeigalan-khokh
• Tsiti-khokh
• Khirkhaten

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.

Report

on the first ascent of Pik Alania via the North-Eastern ridge, category 1B, by the Alpinism Federation of the Republic of North Ossetia — Alania team, July 23, 2021.

1. Ascent Passport

№	1. General information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Koklin D.A. — 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Egorin S.V.
1.4	Organization	Alpinism Federation of the Republic of North Ossetia — Alania
2. Characteristics of the ascent object

REPORT

on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, 1B category of complexity, by the KAT Fatum team February 14, 2024

I. Climbing Report

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Tolistikova E.Yu. — 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full name of coach	Egorin S.V.

Report

on the first traverse of Tbau Glavnaya – Tbau Severo-Zapadnaya, winter category 1B difficulty level, by the FATUM CAT team on February 14, 2024.

I. Climbing Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of participants	Tolistikova E.Yu. — 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full name of coach	Egorin S.V.
1.4	Organization	FATUM CAT
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

REPORT ON ASCENT TO DASHTSAR PEAK VIA THE TERRACES OF THE WEST WALL ROUTE, CATEGORY 2A COMPLEXITY. By the team of the Climbing Camps Management from June 2, 2024, to June 2, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

Item No.	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Chikin Artem Borisovich, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.2	Full Name, sports rank of participants	Gumashvili V.L., 3rd sports rank; Barsukova E.A., 3rd sports rank.
1.3	Full Name of the coach	Yakovenko Alexander Nikolaevich, Master of Sports
1.4	Organization	Climbing Camps Management
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

"Bikaravgom Zapadny" Route via the West Ridge

(combined, 4A cat. diff.) The path from the KSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the starting point on the platforms of the West Ridge of Bivuchnaya peak. From the bivouac (departure at 2-3 am due to rockfall in the couloir and the length of the route):

• Cross the Karaugom plateau.
• Move along the wide snow-ice couloir descending from the saddle between the peak and the West Gendarme.
• From the plateau, ascend 50-70 m up the snowy slope of the wide couloir to the bergschrund.
• Overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge.
• Ascend 250-300 m along the left side of the wide, steep snow-ice couloir (possible rockfall — prepare equipment).
• Reaching the foot of the rocky walls of the West Gendarme, traverse 100-120 m along the couloir beside the rocks on the right side of the gendarme (rockfall onto the saddle of the West Ridge — cornice — is possible on the right).