"Bikaravgom Zapadny" Route via the West Ridge

(combined, 4A cat. diff.)

The path from the KSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the starting point on the platforms of the West Ridge of Bivuchnaya peak.

From the bivouac (departure at 2-3 am due to rockfall in the couloir and the length of the route):

• Cross the Karaugom plateau.
• Move along the wide snow-ice couloir descending from the saddle between the peak and the West Gendarme.
• From the plateau, ascend 50-70 m up the snowy slope of the wide couloir to the bergschrund.
• Overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge.
• Ascend 250-300 m along the left side of the wide, steep snow-ice couloir (possible rockfall — prepare equipment).
• Reaching the foot of the rocky walls of the West Gendarme, traverse 100-120 m along the couloir beside the rocks on the right side of the gendarme (rockfall onto the saddle of the West Ridge — cornice — is possible on the right).
• Exit to the Zapadny Karaugom peak.

On the saddle, or before reaching it, turn right and along the steep grassy slope alongside the rocks, traverse 50-70 m to approach the couloir from the West Ridge side (belay). Further along the steep rocks of medium difficulty with snow-ice sections, ascend the 300-400-meter couloir under the wall. In the middle section, it is safer to exit the couloir to the right along the rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the couloir and ascend 100 m. After passing a small wall of the gendarme, exit under the wall of the upper part of the couloir. Bypass the wall (key section of the route) along a narrow ledge on the right and via rocks above medium difficulty, possibly icy, along the steep 10-12-meter corner on the right side of the wall, ascend (piton belay) into the upper couloir. Along the left side of the simple, местами unreliable couloir ("live" rocks — belay) exit to the West Ridge. Further along the simple ridge ascent, 100-120 m to the peak of Zapadny Karaugom. From the initial bivouac — 10-13 hours. Descent via the East Ridge.