1. Class — technical.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge.
3. Peak — Belaya via the North ridge, height 4760 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 575 m, length of sections by category: II — 620 m, III — 360 m, IV — 170 m, average steepness — 29°.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 18, ice — ?; for anchors and organization: rock — ?, ice — ?.
7. Total climbing hours — 9.5 hours.

ASCENT LOG

I. Technical Class 2. Ascent Area: Pamir-Alay, Alayskiy Ridge 3. Peak Gajir (5080 m), via the South-East Face and South-West Ridge 4. 5B category of complexity 5. Route Characteristics: height difference – 2000 m, average steepness – 60°, face steepness – 70°, total length – 2600 m, length of sections with 5th category of complexity – 300 m, length of sections with 6th category of complexity – 30 m 6. Pitons used: rock – 42, ice – 4, protection gear – 56, for creating Intermediate Technical Objects (ITO) – 2 7. Total climbing hours: 19 8. Number of nights spent: one overnight stay in a tent 9. Surname, first name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification:

Description of the ascent route to the summit Ulitor 4680 m via North spur of West ridge, category 3B difficulty (orientation)

The summit Ulitor 4680 m is located in the spurs of the Alay ridge in the Kollektorskiy range between the summits Fergana and Zachetnaya. To the east of Ulitor lies the pass Fergana, category 1B difficulty, and to the west - the pass Ulitor, category 2B difficulty. To approach the start of the route from the alplager "Dugoba", it is necessary to:

• ascend along the Dugoba gorge (via a trail) to the confluence with the Ulitor river,
• then along the Ulitor river gorge (via a trail) to the 3600 m campsite. From there, continue up the gorge (keeping to the right-hand side):
• initially via a trail,
• then across moraines,
• emerging onto the Ulitor glacier and traversing its center towards the summit Ulitor.

1. Climbing category: combined
2. Climbing area: AUSB "Dugoba", Kollektorsky Ridge, spur of the Alay Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route taken: p. Yubileynaya 4860 m. Western edge and Eastern ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2B
5. Route characteristics: combined
6. Height difference: 1260 m.
7. Length of sections:
   • Cat. diff. 5
   • Cat. diff. 4
   • Cat. diff. 3 — 53 m.

Climbing Route Description

to Begich Peak (4473 m) via Western Counterfort of the 10.3 ridge, category 3A (approx.). From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow, follow the trail along the left (orographically) bank of the Kok-Su River to the 2nd bridge (2 hours 30 minutes from the camp). Cross the bridge and ascend along the Shakhdara stream to the cirque under Kyz-Korgon Peak (4630 m), where you set up a bivouac (4 hours 30 minutes from the camp). From the bivouac, ascend along the left (in the direction of travel) stream to the glacier between the ridges of Begich and Kyz-Korgon Peaks. Traverse the glacier (in teams), bypassing the western ridge of Begich Peak, and exit to the upper cirque of the glacier. From the upper cirque, approach the reddish counterfort of the Southwest ridge, orienting towards the triangular wall formed on the left by a chimney and on the right by a snow-ice couloir. The journey from the bivouac takes 3 hours. Ascend to the triangular wall's summit, moving left-up along a ledge, then right-up through a cleft (40 m), and then along the ridge (40 m). Use piton belays. On the triangle's summit, there's a control cairn. From the cairn, ascend directly up a wide, steep (40°) scree couloir, then along rocky ridges, exiting under the base of the large reddish triangular wall (120 m). From here, move right, then directly up along the right rocky wall of a narrow snow-ice couloir, exiting onto the counterfort ridge (40 m). Use piton belays and natural features for protection. The journey from the start of the route takes 2 hours. Along the counterfort ridge, navigate through a series of short (3–4 m) rocky walls and inclined ledges, bypassing a large gendarme on the right (in the direction of travel), and exit onto the Southwest ridge of the peak, under the base of a rocky ascent (80 m).

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Koksu tract area, Alai ridge, Kemisdykty glacier cirque.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4824, via north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • route — combined;
   • height difference — 950 m;
   • length of sections 5–6;

Description of the Approach to the Route

From the bivouac located in the pocket of the Nizhny Guamysh glacier, ascend via soft and medium talus to the moraine of the NII glacier (30 min). Then, along the moraine of the NII glacier, approach the western slope of v. Bivachnaya, bypassing it on the right (30 min). The start of the route is in a wide couloir on the western slope of v. Bivachnaya.

Brief Explanation of the Table

Section R0–R1: Ascend via a wide snowy couloir located to the left of the summit to the rocky outcrops. Movement is simultaneous, with a slope steepness of 30°. Section R1–R2: Ascend via rocky outcrops, occasionally stepping onto snow, to the saddle. Belay with pitons (2 pitons). Rocks are of medium difficulty; steepness is 40°. Section R2–R3: From the saddle, move upwards to the right along the talus ridge to the summit (40 m). Movement is simultaneous. Descent is via the ascent route.

5

Route Description

The route starts from the ascent to the 1st candar on the northern ridge of the peak. Initially, 150 m across the firn and talus of the ice-rock dome located to the right of the rib, leading to the 1st candar. The steepness of the dome in its lower part is 45°. Further, the dome narrows, its steepness increases to 50°, and its rockfall danger also increases. Then, there is a transition to the talus of the rib. The average steepness of the rib is 50°. The length to the gandarm on the ridge is about 500 m. The rib is a step-like rock formation with walls up to 85° steep and 3–6 meters high. In some areas, there is accretion ice. Movement is alternating with piton belay and belay through protrusions. From the start of the route to the 1st gandarm on the ridge — 3 hours. At the first gandarm, there is a control point. Further movement is along the northern ridge. The 1st gandarm is bypassed on the right via ledges, 60 m. Then, there is an ascent up to the rocky ridge, 40 m. Individual rocky protrusions of the ridge are passed head-on. The 2nd gandarm on the ridge is passed head-on. From the 1st gandarm on the ridge to the summit — 2 hours.

Descent from the Summit

Initially, 60 m along the ascent path. Then, left into a snowy couloir with a steepness of 40° to

Approaches to the route.

The 4470 m peak closes the main spur of the Guamysh ridge, which branches off in the northern direction and separates the Nizhny Guamysh glacier from the glacier in I. Enumeration:

• Main spur of the Guamysh ridge
• Direction — northern
• Separation of the Nizhny Guamysh glacier from the glacier in I From the base camp, located below the Guamysh pass, move along the trail to the right along the Guamysh river, approaching the entrance of the Nizhny Guamysh glacier. From here, the North spur of the peak is visible, the path to which goes along the lateral moraine and further along the main slope. The journey from the base camp to the start of the route takes 3–3.5 hours.

Brief explanation for the route table.

The ascent along the snow-ice slope (section I–II, II–III, III–IV) bypassing the rock wall, which ends the North edge of the peak, passes in close proximity to 64 eq. and leads to the ridge. Above the ridge, a powerful rock wall overhangs. Here is the first control point. The wall is bypassed on the left along an inclined shelf with piton belay and further the rock wall leads to the right onto the edge with gendarmes, turning into a destroyed edge, which ends with a sheer wall. The wall is bypassed on the left along the snow and then along the inclined rock shelf, resting against the rock wall (section I–II). Further along the inclined stepped shelf with small walls, we exit onto the edge between two gendarmes. The first gendarme is climbed "head-on", the second is bypassed on the left. From the gendarme along the main edge — the exit to the summit.

367 (Гуа­мин) is the summit of the Guamin ridge and is located on its linear part (see the map of the area). From the base camp located below the Guamin pass, we moved along the trail to the right along the Guamin river, approaching the tongue of the Nizhny Guamin glacier. From here the summit and its northwest ridge are visible. The further path goes:

• to the right of the glacier along the lateral moraine
• in the upper part, we cross the glacier under the northwest wall of the summit Here on the moraine is the overnight stay. The path from the base camp to the start of the route takes 3.5–4.0 hours.