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Route Description

The route starts from the ascent to the 1st candar on the northern ridge of the peak. Initially, 150 m across the firn and talus of the ice-rock dome located to the right of the rib, leading to the 1st candar. The steepness of the dome in its lower part is 45°. Further, the dome narrows, its steepness increases to 50°, and its rockfall danger also increases. Then, there is a transition to the talus of the rib. The average steepness of the rib is 50°.

The length to the gandarm on the ridge is about 500 m. The rib is a step-like rock formation with walls up to 85° steep and 3–6 meters high. In some areas, there is accretion ice. Movement is alternating with piton belay and belay through protrusions. From the start of the route to the 1st gandarm on the ridge — 3 hours. At the first gandarm, there is a control point. Further movement is along the northern ridge. The 1st gandarm is bypassed on the right via ledges, 60 m. Then, there is an ascent up to the rocky ridge, 40 m. Individual rocky protrusions of the ridge are passed head-on. The 2nd gandarm on the ridge is passed head-on. From the 1st gandarm on the ridge to the summit — 2 hours.

Descent from the Summit

Initially, 60 m along the ascent path. Then, left into a snowy couloir with a steepness of 40° to 45°. Movement down the couloir is initially alternating with belay on the right side, and in the lower part, it is simultaneous. The couloir, gradually widening and descending, leads to the glacier of the cirque. The descent takes 45 minutes. Across the moraines of the cirque glacier, there is a return to the overnight stay at the Karnitsa of the N. Guamysh glacier. It also takes about 45 minutes.