Description of the Approach to the Route

From the bivouac located in the pocket of the Nizhny Guamysh glacier, ascend via soft and medium talus to the moraine of the NII glacier (30 min). Then, along the moraine of the NII glacier, approach the western slope of v. Bivachnaya, bypassing it on the right (30 min).

The start of the route is in a wide couloir on the western slope of v. Bivachnaya.

Brief Explanation of the Table

Section R0–R1: Ascend via a wide snowy couloir located to the left of the summit to the rocky outcrops. Movement is simultaneous, with a slope steepness of 30°. Section R1–R2: Ascend via rocky outcrops, occasionally stepping onto snow, to the saddle. Belay with pitons (2 pitons). Rocks are of medium difficulty; steepness is 40°.

Section R2–R3: From the saddle, move upwards to the right along the talus ridge to the summit (40 m). Movement is simultaneous.

Descent is via the ascent route.