367 (Гуа­мин) is the summit of the Guamin ridge and is located on its linear part (see the map of the area).

From the base camp located below the Guamin pass, we moved along the trail to the right along the Guamin river, approaching the tongue of the Nizhny Guamin glacier. From here the summit and its northwest ridge are visible.

The further path goes:

  • to the right of the glacier along the lateral moraine
  • in the upper part, we cross the glacier under the northwest wall of the summit

Here on the moraine is the overnight stay. The path from the base camp to the start of the route takes 3.5–4.0 hours.

A brief description is given in the route table.

We crawl along the snow-ice slope, the bergschrund leads to a saddle, from which along the snow ridge we come to a rocky edge. The further path goes along the wall to the left along the ice couloir, which separates from the "trapezoid" on the northwest ridge of the summit and above which an icefall hangs, to the first control cairn, which is located at the beginning of a small snow ridge abutting the wall.

From here we make our way along the left part, then the ice couloir leads under a steep wall, which ends with an overhanging slab. Further, we move slightly to the left to the ridge, at the end of which is a small snow ridge. Here is the overnight stay.

From the overnight stay, we move up the ice couloir, then to the left along the wall to a destroyed ridge, from which we turn into a snow-ice couloir leading to the pre-summit ridge, along which the path leads to the summit. The descent from the summit is along the northern ridge to the Verkhny Guamin pass.

Sources

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