Report

The teams of climbers from the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on the "Skalnaya стена" peak via the southern wall from the "Khoroshevsky" pass, category 4B-5A (approximately). July 30 - August 1, 1968, Fann Mountains. Protocol No. 293 dated 10.XII.68. Category 4B. The group is credited with a first ascent. Tolyatti

Route map

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. ASCENT CLASS — technical.
2. ASCENT REGION — Pamir-Alay.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Skalnaya Stena, 5112, via the left part of the center of the North face.
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 810 m, length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 220 m, «––» — 5th cat. diff. — 430 m,

I. Rock Class

2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains. Imat Valley.
3. "Stupenka" Peak.
4. Proposed category 2B difficulty level. First ascent.
5. Height difference 250 m. Length of sections with category 3 difficulty – 35 m, category 2 difficulty – 250 m.
6. 5 pitons hammered, 8 chocks placed.
7. Climbing time – 2.5 hours.
8. Team members: Baykovsky Yuri Viktorovich MS
   • Gupalov Andrey II

Report

on the first ascent of the group from the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club to the summit 4292 m (“Peak of the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club”) via the southwest slope and west ridge Leader of the first ascent in 2015: Sergey Soldyatov, e-mail: sswmgn@ya.ru, phone: 8-912-806-00-54 Coach: Sergey Soldyatov, e-mail: sswmgn@ya.ru, phone: 8-912-806-00-54

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range.
2. Summit: 4292 m (Proposed name “Peak of the Magnitogorsk Alpine Club”). Location: (39°13′30.3″ N 68°45′54.6″ E).
3. Route: via the southwest slope and west ridge.
4. Category: 3A, first ascent.

PASSPORT

1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range
3. Peak Akhun (5224) via the right counterfort of the Southeast wall
4. Proposed 6B category of complexity, first ascent
5. Height difference 1734 m, length 1892 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity is 1752 m. Of which 6 category is 829 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 82.5°. Average steepness of the route is 76°.
6. Use of protection points: | rock anchors | piton anchors | ice anchors | chocks |

Passport

I. Technical class 2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge 3. Akhun peak (5224 m) via the right counterfort of the Southeast wall 4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Elevation gain 1734 m, length 1892 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1752 m. Of which 6 category of difficulty — 829 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route — 82.5°
• route overall — 76°

Content

• Content
• Ascent Passport (Appendix 1)
• General view photo of the summit
• Map of the ascent area
• Description of the approach to the route
• Table of route section characteristics (Appendix 2)
• Explanation of the route section characteristics table
• Photos of route sections

Russian Mountaineering Federation

Team Report

MAGNITOGORSK MOUNTAINEERING CLUB FIRST ASCENT ON PIK MAGNITKA, APPROX. 5A CAT.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area – 5.3.3 Pamiro-Alai;
2. Object of ascent – Pik Magnitka, via SW ridge, 4477 m;
3. Category of difficulty 5A;
4. Route type – rock;
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 957 m;

The route starts from a saddle on the north ridge, named Pervovoschoditelnaya ver. “Kristelnый” (scree on the pass contains many marble crystals). The ascent to this 3600 m pass takes about 3 hours from the base camp: go upstream along the Kshonny river, just below the confluence - cross the river over a bridge and ascend into a lateral gorge, leaving a stream canyon on the left (see fig. 1). Below the pass - on a green ledge, on the left slope of the lateral gorge. From the pass, traverse a 200 m snowfield (40° steepness, simultaneous movement). It requires 250 m of slabby rocks and a descent to a rocky saddle to the right of the axis. Hакdaри is bypassed to the right, down via ledges (4–5 ropes, pitons) and then up into a gap between the peak Линим, Хакдари, and the ridge. Here is a cairn. Ascent to a rocky ridge below a marble belt (fig. I–I, additional 2 ropes), rockfall hazard. Up the ridge, then ascent to a destroyed ledge. Protection through rock protrusions. Along an inclined rocky ledge to the right, 1 rope (belay on rock horns). We approach a slot-like wall (1 rope) made of destroyed marble. This is one of the key sections of the route. We exit below

связка: social angle (not avalanche-prone) detour to the angle on the shelf to the right? Further — up the destroyed rocks (50 m, steepness 55–60°), then along the inclined shelf 8 m (cold rock) — exit to the ice couloir. Up the couloir I rope (45°), traverse to the right on the ice (fig. I-2) — to a short edge under the characteristic rock "tooth" (ice cliffs, chopping steps, digging). Second overnight stay. Immediately from the overnight stay, traverse to the right and up 50–60 m along rocks of medium difficulty (pitons). Further, three ropes with belay through ledges with exit to the ridge (“live” stones). The ridge is straightforward — 200 m. From here under the «ём (fig. I–3) along the wall (I rope of difficult climbing), then two ropes of very difficult rocks (14 pitons) and along the rocky couloir exit to the ridge. This is the second key section of the route.