Ascent Record

Route: South peak of Trekhglaaya peak, 2511 m a.s.l., via South-Eastern buttress Proposed difficulty category: 3B. Route characteristics: height difference 636 m, average slope 50°. Pitons used: rock 19 pcs., ice 0, bolted 0. Duration: 9 hours. Number of bivouacs: 0. Leader: Krasnukhin L.I., 1st sports category. Team members: Zhila A.Yu., 1st sports category, Bolshedvorsky V.V., 1st sports category, Lebedev V.G., 1st sports category, Ponomarchuk V.S., 1st sports category, Mishchurinsky B.A., 1st sports category. Team coach: Popov V.N. Ascent date: March 7, 1978. Irkutsk

General view of Trekhglaaya peak

Route completed by the group

Previously climbed routes:

• 4B difficulty category

As­cent pass­port to the peak Trekhgla­vaya (C — N) 2557 m, via East­ern couloir, traverse, cat. 2A. East­ern Sayan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Kyngarga valley, sec­tion 6.1. 2. Peak Trekhgla­vaya (C — N), 2557 m, via East­ern couloir, traverse. 3. Pro­posed cat. 2A, first as­cent. 4. Route char­ac­ter — com­bined. 5. Height dif­fer­ence 300 m, length 1400 m, av­er­age steep­ness 25°. 6. Pitons: rock and wired 5 pcs. 7. Team's mov­ing hours — 7 h. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team: Afa­nasiev S.A. III grade, Afa­nasiev A.E. MS. 10. Coach — Afa­nasiev A.E. MS. 11. As­cent to the peak and re­turn on May 1, 2001. De­scrip­tion of the as­cent route to the peak Trekhgla­vaya (C-N) 2557 m via East­ern couloir, traverse, cat. 2A. This route is the re­verse traverse of the clas­si­fied route 2B cat. of the S — C Trekhgla­vaya traverse, start­ing with the as­cent via S ridge. This route starts from the de­scend­ing couloir of east­ern ex­po­sure be­tween the peaks South­ern and Cen­tral Trekhgla­vaya. Here is the de­scent from all routes to the South­ern and Cen­tral peaks of Trekhgla­vaya, and some­times peo­ple de­scend af­ter as­cend­ing to the North­ern Trekhgla­vaya. Along the couloir — 500 m, 35° — snow cov­ered scree. Some­times it is ava­lanch­e-haz­ard­ous. The up­per part of the couloir is lo­cated in the nar­row rocky jaws of the South­ern and Cen­tral tow­ers and snow here some years per­sists till the end of sum­mer. Sec­tion R0–R1 60 m. 45° I+ Up­per part of the couloir. On the bridge snow cor­niche up to 2 m. Ropes. Sec­tion R1–R2 350 m. 60° II− As­cent to the Cen­tral tow­er of Trekhgla­vaya can be done by two vari­ants:

• first one via South­ern ridge, three rope lengths, 4 rock pitons;
• sec­ond — left of the ridge via de­scend­ing path, one-two rope lengths. This sec­tion is the key one for the route 1B cat.

Uzel Rebyonka 2798 m, via North-East Ridge, Category III

6.1.2. Irkutsk 2008. Scheme of the route to Uzel Rebyonka 2798 m, via North-East Ridge, Category III.

Uzel Rebyonka	Length m	Steepness °	Difficulty	Number of pitons
	20	30	IIIБ
	40	60	IIIБ
	30	40	I-
	15	55	IIIБ
	10		V-

Irkutsk Regional Alpine Federation

Description

Ascent to v. "Flibustier" via the 3rd ridge (Tunkin Goltsy) Eastern Sayan. 2860 m. Irkutsk, 1971.

Geographical Information, Sports Characteristics, and History of the Exploration of the Moygato Valley

The Moygato valley is located in the middle part of the Tunkin Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan. Tunkin Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan. The highest point is 3266 m in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym valley. The ridge has alpine forms of relief. There are many peaks of interest to climbers. The valleys are deep, covered with impenetrable taiga. The forest boundary lies at an altitude of 1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peak "Flibustier" is located in a lateral spur. The height of the peak is 2860 m.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "FLIBUSTIER" VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, 2860

Group Composition

KUZNETSOV YU.A. — 2nd sports category, 4A, 4A, 4B, 4B, 5A, 5A — team leader MUKHORTOV M.V. — 2nd sports category, 9 ascents of 4th category difficulty, 5A — participant KUPRINA N.S. — 2nd sports category, 4A, 4A, 4B, 5A MIKHAILOV A.A. — 2nd sports category, 4A Irkutsk, 1971 Brief Geographical Characteristics The summit "Flibustier" is located in the southern lateral spur of the Tunka ridge. Its eastern slope drops into the valley of the Moygota river, and the western slope — into the valley of the Biron river. The described route is laid from the Moygota river gorge. The entrance to the gorge is located 25–30 km from the Arshan resort. A dirt road allows driving to the gorge by truck.

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Recreation and Alpinism" Gory Baikal

Report on the First Ascent

To the peak Charskie Zori 2920 m via the western ridge. Approximately 2B category of difficulty.

Irkutsk, 2016. Passport of the Ascent

1. (Eastern) Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, Barun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table (6.1.2).
2. Charskie Zori 2920 m via the western ridge.

6.1 Eastern Sayan Charskiye зори, 2920 m 3Аz from North by 3 ridge Zhigalov А.V. October 23, 2012

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Region — Eastern Sayan, Baruun-Khandagai
3. Peak Charskiye зори, 2920 m from North by 3 ridge
4. Supposed — first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 680 m.
• total length 1900 m.

As­cen­sion cer­ti­fi­cate

1. East­ern Say­an, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy range, Ba­ruun-Khan­da­gai riv­er gorge. Sec­tion num­ber ac­cord­ing to clas­si­fi­ca­tion ta­ble 6.1.2 — Char­s­kie Zori, 2920 m (sum­mit co­or­di­nates: 51°55′24.54″ N 102°10′90″ E), via south-east­ern coun­ter­fort of west­ern ridge
2. Dif­fi­cul­ty cat­e­gory: pro­posed 4B cat., first as­cen­sion
3. Na­ture of the route — rocky.
4. Route el­e­va­tion dif­fer­ence: 400 m Route length: 550 m. Length of sec­tions: V cat. dif­fi­cul­ty — 60 m, VI cat. dif­fi­cul­ty — 85 m. Av­er­age steep­ness: wall sec­tion of the route — 80°, en­tire route

Ascent Report

Peak Charskie Zori (2920 m) — Eastern wall of the Southern counterfort — Route 5A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gully, 6.1 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Ilyinsky V.A.
• Shcherban A.N.

2013

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai gully, 6.1
2. Peak Charskie Zori (2920 m), via E wall of S counterfort.
3. Proposed — 5A — first ascent.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: High-altitude technical 2. Ascent area: Southwestern Pamir 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak 5739 (Moskovskaya olimpiada, northeastern wall) 4. Estimated difficulty category: 6 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference: 1003 m
• Average steepness: 74° (Bastions)
• Average steepness of the wall:
  1. 79°