Climbing Passport

I. Winter category. 2. Central Caucasus. 3. Shkhelda 2nd Western peak (4310) via the black stream on the South-Southwest wall through the cornices. 4. Proposed - 6A category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 550 m (350 m of wall and 200 m of roof); length - 985 m (450 m of wall), 5-6 category of difficulty - 350 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty - 90 m; 6th - 259 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 73°. 6. Pitons driven: rock, nuts, bolt hangers, skyhooks

89. Peak Aristova via the South Couloir and West Ridge (O. Aristova's route, category 4A). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) via the Shkheldinsky and Aksu glaciers through Peak Fizkulturnik is described in route 80, and through Biwacny pass - in route 87. The initial bivouac is on the South Shkhelda plateau. Traverse the snowy plateau of the South Shkhelda glacier along the southern walls of the Shkhelda massif and, after passing a wide snowy couloir with ice falls, turn left and ascend a narrow, long couloir to the "ram's foreheads" on the southern slope of the massif. The "ram's foreheads" are located between two wide snowy couloirs descending from the southern slopes of the Shkhelda massif onto the South Shkhelda glacier plateau. Bivouac on the площадки. From "Aristova's overnight stay" 11–13 hours. From the "ram's foreheads," traverse right to ascend, crossing a snowy couloir, to a rocky outcrop in the center of a wide snowy couloir. From the outcrop, ascend via the right couloir to a snowy saddle under the rocky walls. From the saddle, traverse the snowy slope left to a depression under the rocky walls. Then, up and left along the ice-snow slope of the couloir. Having passed two snowy "neckties," ascend via the right side of the steep snowy couloir to the saddle of the West ridge of Peak Aristova, between peaks Nauka and Aristova (snowy slopes of the couloir are avalanche-prone!). From the "ram's foreheads" 6–9 hours. Here, in a snowy depression, leave your backpacks and ascend Peak Aristova via a simple, wide snowy ridge. From the point of reaching the ridge, 1 hour. Descend from the peak via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 5 days.

1. Ascent class: winter
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Adylsu gorge
3. Shkhelda 3rd Western peak via the counterfort of the North wall
4. Category of difficulty: 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 903 m, length 1152 m, average slope 56°
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent

TO THE 3RD WESTERN SHKHELDA-TAU

Via the Northern Wall

The group consisted of:

• Koptev V. - leader
• Minin Yu. - participant
• Aleksashin L. - participant
• Bozhukov V. - participant MOSCOW 1960

Brief Characteristics of the Ascent Object

USSR - MPS Central Council of VDOC "Lokomotiv"

Description

Traverse made by the team of CC VDOC "Lokomotiv", Shkhelda-Ushba with ascent via the northern wall to the 3rd Western Shkhelda-Tau

Konkov I.P. + 5 people Description of the Shkhelda-Ushba traverse with ascent via the northern wall to the 3rd Western Shkhelda (by "Rybka"), carried out from August 8 to August 22, 1965.

August 8

10:30. The team of CC VDOC "Lokomotiv" consisting of five members of the assault group and two observers left the camp to make the Shkhelda-Ushba traverse with ascent via the northern wall to the 3rd Western Shkhelda. 14:00. Bivouac was set up at "Aristov's overnight stay". 18:00. Trial radio communication with the camp and the observation group was conducted.

August 9 - 1st day of ascent up the wall

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Shkhelda Valley
3. Shkhelda 3-western via the North face of the North-West ridge (Kensitskiy's variant)
4. 5B category of difficulty.
5. Height difference — 903 m. Length — 1152 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 300 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52°. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 72°.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: previously used – 4, new – 0
   • bolt: previously used – 22, new – 17

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge
3. III western Shkhelda (4229 m) via the north face of the northwest ridge (Kensitsky variation)
4. 5B category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1129 m, height difference of the route's wall section — 320 m, route length — 1630 m, length of the route's wall section — 340 m,

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the North-West ridge, category 5B, undertaken by the team of alpinist camp "Varzob" UA VS DSO trade unions from July 30 to July 31, 1984 Team captain — Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov, Team coach — Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov. Addresses:

• alpinist camp "Varzob" — 734003, Dushanbe, post office box 362
• Team captain — 734061, Dushanbe, ul. 50 let Tadzhikistana, d. II, kv. 4, Kapitanov Oleg Viktorovich Altitude measurement was done using altimeter AV No. 714568. Steepness was determined visually and with the help of a protractor. Profile of the route to the summit Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the NW ridge (view from the left) PHOTO-2 Date taken — July 31, 1984. Distance — 1.5 km. Time taken — 12:00. Shooting point — 2. Lens — Industar 52/2. Shooting height — 4100 m. Profile of the route to the summit Shkhelda 3rd Western (4229 m) via the North face of the NW ridge (view from the right)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge
3. III West Shkhelda, 4229 m, via the North wall and traverse of Central and Eastern Shkhelda peaks (4320 m)
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: — wall section height difference: 1130 m — average steepness of the wall section: 48° — route length: 3190 m — wall section length: 1560 m

Moscow Alpinism Championship 2009. Technical Climbing Class

Central Caucasus

Report

On the ascent to Chegem peak (4461 m) via the NE wall of the NE ridge (first ascent) Team Leader: Sergey Nilov — Master of Sports Coach: Sergey Kutkin, Candidate for Master of Sports, 2nd category instructor.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Central Caucasus, Chegem gorge
2. Peak: Chegem, height 4461 m.
3. Route: Via the North-Eastern wall of the North-Eastern ridge