v. Yunost' from the Aktru gorge, 1B cat. diff.

From the camp, move up the river in the direction of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of the Kzyl-Tash River, following the riverbed to the large rocky "sheep's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree slope. Further:

• Move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of v. Stazhёrov.
• The lake is located behind a moraine rampart.
• On the moraine — a glaciologists' tent.
• From the camp — 2–2.5 hours of walking.
• A convenient place for an overnight stay. From the mo­ra­ine la­ke, go out onto the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (crevasses! Move in ropes!). Move, following the slopes on the right up to v. Yunost'. Cross the glacier in the direction of the ridge located to the right of v. Yunost'. Time — 2.5–3 hours.

Passport

1. Class. First ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Peak "Russia XX века" – peak "Instruktorov" traverse.
4. Proposed 3A category of difficulty.
5. Elevation difference 860 m, length 2210 m.
6. Pitons: 18 ice screws.
7. Climbing hours: 11 h from glacier to glacier.
8. Overnight stays: not necessary.
9. Leader: Drakin A.V. CMS.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Region: Altai. Severo-Chuysky Ridge.
2. Peak: 3740
3. Proposed: 2B–3A category of difficulty
4. Route type: combined
5. Route description: Elevation gain — 960 m Route length — 2600 m Length of 3rd category of difficulty sections — 100 m Average slope — 40°

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit DVS, 3755 m, Altai Republic, Kosh-Agachsky district, North-Chuya ridge, Akturu gorge via the icy slope through Jelo pass 3A cat. diff. (combined) by a group of climbers at the Tomsk Alpinism Federation gathering on November 2, 2022.

Participants:

Temerev Ivan Mikhailovich, Master of Sports Khasanov Nail Albertovich, 3rd sports category Shubin Andrey Sergeevich, 3rd sports category Bunkov Viktor Evgenievich, 3rd sports category Saraev German Igorevich, 3rd sports category

Report

On the ascent of the assembled team to the summit of Alisher 3670 m.

via the North Ridge. Presumably 1B category of difficulty. First ascent. Dolgov S. P. — team leader Usanov I. V., Luzhetsky I. V.

Altai 2013 participants of the ascent

1. Team leader — Dolgov Sergey Pavlovich. CMS. Address: 656015, Barnaul, ul. Depotskaya, 12–38. phone: +7 903-073-98-18. Email: s_dolgov@mail.ru
2. Usanov Ivan Vladimirovich, 1st sports category, Gorno-Altaisk
3. Luzhetsky Igor Viktorovich, 2nd sports category, Novosibirsk

Technical photography of the route

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Route description

R0–R1. The route begins from a small hut located at the foot of the ridge. Movement is along the snowy slope along the ridge on the right (orographically) below the rock outcrops, in the direction of a large rock ledge. Movement with alternating belay, through ice screws (under the snow — sections of ice). 770 m. 45° II. R1–R2. The rocky ledge of the ridge is bypassed on the right (orographically), exit to the icy slope leading to the crest of the North ridge. Movement with alternating belay, through ice screws. 50 m. III. R2–R3. Further — along the gentle snowy ridge in the direction of the summit (exit of destroyed rocks). Simultaneous movement. 250 m. I.

Photo illustration of the report

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Ascent Passport

1. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, section 1.3 of the classifier
2. Dzhanikktu, 3922 m, via the southeast ridge from Rubtsovsk Pass.
3. Proposed category: 1B.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference: 760 m. Route length: 1480 m. Length of sections with category V complexity: 0, category VI complexity: 0. Average slope: 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route Total: 0, bolted pitons: 0.
7. Team's travel time: 7 hours, 1 day.

Ascent Passport

1. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, classifier section 1.3
2. Irbistu, 3967 m, via the western edge.
3. Proposed category: 1B.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 750 m. Route length: 1600 m. Length of sections with category V: 0, category VI: 0. Average slope: 28°.
6. Pitons left on the route Total: 0, bolted pitons: 0.
7. Team's total climbing time: 7.5 hours, 1 day.

Irbistu peak via the center of the North-West slope, 2B cat. diff., combined, by Barnov S.I. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge 1.2

Passport

1. Class: combined.
2. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley, 1.3
3. Irbistu peak via the center of the North-West slope. Coordinates: (49°45.536′ N, 88°05.186′ E, height 3967, 3963 according to navigator)
4. Proposed — 2B cat. diff., first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1000 m (between the summit and intermediate camp: 1157 m); length — 2500 m. Average steepness of the route — 30–35 degrees.