Ascent Passport

Altai, South Chuya Ridge, classifier section 1.3
Irbistu, 3967 m, via the western edge.
Proposed category: 1B.
Route type: combined.
Elevation gain: 750 m.

Route length: 1600 m. Length of sections with category V: 0, category VI: 0. Average slope: 28°.

Pitons left on the route

Total: 0, bolted pitons: 0.

Team's total climbing time: 7.5 hours, 1 day.
Team leader: Ivan Yarovoy, Candidate for Master of Sports.

Team members:

Pavel Gamayunov
Dmitry Nemuschenko

Coach: Ivan Yarovoy
Approach to the route from the base camp

Route started: 8:00 AM, May 2, 2014. Summit reached: 3:30 PM, May 2, 2014. Return to base camp: 8:00 PM, May 2, 2014. Descent from the summit via the ascent route.

Organizing body: Novosibirsk, Federation of Alpinism of Novosibirsk Oblast (FANSO).
Person responsible for the report: Ivan Yarovoy (email: fanso@mail.ru, phone: 8-913-724-6765)

General photo of the summit. Taken on May 4, 2014, from the slopes of Janiiktu.

3716 m

Area Map

To reach the area:

Drive along the Novosibirsk-Tashanta highway (M-52) to the settlement of Ortolyk
Continue on a dirt road using high-clearance vehicles to the upper reaches of the Elangash River

Here, you can set up a base camp.

This ascent is not a first ascent. Irbistu (also known as Tymomu) is the highest peak of the South Chuya Ridge and, although not frequently, is climbed by tourist groups. However, it is not listed in the "Classifier of Routes to Mountain Peaks".

Route Description

Section	Length (m)	Slope (degrees)	Terrain Type	Category	Number of Pitons
R0–R1	600	25-30	Snow and scree slope	I	0
R1–R2	50	up to 40	Broken rocks	I	0
R1–R3	200	20-25	Snow ridge	I	0
R3–R4	250	25	Snow and ice slope	II–	4
R4–R5	500	30	Scree slope	I	0

PHOTO OF THE ROUTE WITH SECTION BREAKDOWN

ROUTE PROGRESSION BY SECTION

From the base camp, move up the right (orographic) bank of the Elangash River, gradually bearing left, to reach the terraces above Lake Jankel. The journey from the base camp to the start of the route takes about 3 hours.

R0–R1: Ascend the snow and scree slope to reach the ridge.

R1–R2: Simple broken rocks.

R2–R3: Snow-covered ridge. Movement is simultaneous throughout.

R3–R4: Cross the glacier flowing from the Irbistu ridge. Hard ice (partially exposed, partially covered with a thin layer of snow). Can be traversed simultaneously, but using ice screws as intermediate protection.

R4–R5: Scree slope. Simultaneous movement.

PHOTO ILLUSTRATIONS