V. Radistov via the ridge from the Bolshaya Aktru glacier, category III

From the camp, move up the Aktru river in the direction of the Bolshaya Aktru glacier. The ridge of Radistov Peak is bypassed on the right. Move along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash Peak, following the riverbed until the big "sheep's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree slope. Further:

• go along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhёrov Peak.
• the lake ("Goluboye" / "Blue") is located behind a moraine rampart.
• there is a hut on the moraine.
• from the camp, it takes 2–2.5 hours of walking. From the moraine lake, cross the Bolshaya Aktru glacier in the direction of the widest snow couloir,

Ascent Record.

1. Climbing area: ALTAI REPUBLIC, Severo-Chuyskiy ridge.
2. Summit: SIBIRYAK 3400 m.
3. Route: SIBIRYAK summit — East ridge.
4. Difficulty category: 1B
5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain 1000 m
• length of 1B difficulty sections 300 m
• average slope 30°

6. Piton usage on the route: no

Ascent Passport

1. Altai, Shavlo gorge, section 1.2.
2. Sibiryak peak, via the South ridge from the Orbita pass (3400).
3. Category 1B difficulty is proposed.
4. The nature of the route is combined.
5. Height difference 500 m, length 1000 m, average slope of the route 30°.
6. Driven pitons: rock and wired 2.
7. Team's travel time 5 hours.
8. Leader: Afanasieva G.N. 1st sports category. Participants:

1.85

Ascent Report

to v. Skazka via North entronforts of the Eastern ridge (along the route) I. Ascent class — technical. 2. Ascent area, ridge — Akaya, North-Chuya Belki. 3. Skazka peak, 3500 m, ascent via North entronforts of the Eastern ridge, route is combined. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, length of sections with 4th difficulty grade — 360 m, average steepness — 40°. 6. Pitons hammered in:

V. Snezhnaya 3. North ridge couloir Drakin A.V. Altai. May 4, 1992

Passport

1. Class: snow-ice.
2. Altai: Severo-Chuysky ridge, Akturu gorge.
3. V. Snezhnaya via the western couloir of the north ridge.
4. Proposed category 2B first ascent.

ALPINISM FEDERATION OF NOVOSIBIRSK REGION

Report

On the ascent of the team from Novosibirsk

to the summit Snezhnaia 3800 m via the center of the northwestern slope. Presumably 4A cat. diff. First ascent. Leader: Ivliev Andrei Vladimirovich Participants:

• Kulishova Alena Maratovna
• Pintsov Anton Nikolaevich
• Khudiakov Roman Konstantinovich

The summit of Spasatel via the northwestern slope through the "pillow" of Spasatel Barnov S.I. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy Ridge, 1.2

Passport

1. Category: first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy Ridge, Karakabak gorge, 1.2
3. Spasatel peak, via the northwestern slope through the "pillow" of Spasatel, ice-snow.
4. Proposed — category 3B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 420 m; length — 730 m. Length of sections with category V difficulty — 10–15 m. Average steepness of the route — 30–35°.

Peak Stazhyorov from Znakchikov Pass, 2A cat. dif.

Approach

From the camp, move up towards the Big Akturu glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "sheepbacks" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Then move along the edge of the glacier. A glaciologists' camp is located on the moraine ridge, and beyond the ridge lies the Blue Lake. It takes 3–4.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the moraine lake, move up towards the Znakchikov Pass. The ascent initially goes along scree or a snowy slope (depending on the season). Time — 1.5–2 hours.

Route

Then ascend the steep snow-ice slope to the summit ridge. Movement:

• initially simultaneous,
• then on steep snow-ice sections — alternating with belay (up to 45°). In the upper part of the slope, it may be necessary to cross a crevasse. Then along the summit ridge reach the summit.

1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktuu valley

STUDENTOV Vostochny 3745 m via the south-eastern ridge Proposed:

• Cat. diff. 2A, route No. 64-a
• Route type: combined Note: the height (3745.1) is taken from a published online map at 1:50,000 scale. Elevation gain according to the group's altimeter: 3750–2830 = 920 m. Route length:
• to the pass level — 2700 m (calculated)

Traverse Students - Yunost, 2B cat. diff.

From the camp, move upstream along the river in the direction of Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash peak, following the riverbed to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1 - 1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazherov peak. The lake is located behind a moraine rampart. There is a glaciologists' camp on the moraine. It takes 2 - 2.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the overnight stay on the moraine lake, move up the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (in rope teams!!!), keeping to the rocky ridge on the right. On the left, the glacier drops off a large rocky step. Along the right, gentle part of the glacier, ascend to the level of the rocky step and cross the glacier in the direction of Maashey pass. The ascent is gentle (crevasses!). Time - 2-2.5 hours. From the pass, the path lies to the right along the ridge in the direction of Students peak:

• At first, the ridge is a simple snowy one.
• Before the peak, there is a Big gendarme in the form of a rocky "saw".
• Movement is alternating, with protection through a ledge.
• The "saw" is the key section of the route.
• After the "saw", a straightforward ridge leads to Students peak. Time - 1.5-2 hours. Descent from Students peak and ascent to Yunost peak takes 25-30 minutes along a simple ridge.