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Route Description: СВ склону
Description of a category 5A route to Pik Revolyutsii (6974 m) via the north-eastern slope from the Grumm-Grzhimaylo glacier through the Vertikal pass plateau.
1. Climbing Passport
- Area: Yazgulemsky Ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Grumm-Grzhimailo Glacier Section number according to the 1999 classification table — 4.12
- Name of the peak: Peak Revolyutsii. Name of the route: via the north-eastern slope from Grumm-Grzhimailo Glacier (via the plateau of Vertikal Pass).
- Proposed category — 5A cat. diff.
- Character of the route: Ice and snow
Route Description: ребру В края С стены
First ascent of Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) via the edge of the eastern part of the northern wall, complexity category 5B, combined route.
1. Ascent Passport
- Region: Yazglem Ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Fedchenko Glacier Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.12
- Peak name: Pik Revolyutsii. Route name: via the rib on the eastern edge of the northern wall.
- Proposed – 5B category of complexity, first ascent.
- Route type: combined
- Route elevation gain: 1524 m (by altimeter) Route length: 3355 m.
Route Description: СВ стене с л. Федченко
Ascent of Peak Oktyabrskoi Revolutsii (6,974 m) via the north-west face from the Fedchenko Glacier, made by a team of climbers from the Armed Forces of the USSR in 1967 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the October Revolution.
4.12.38
Armed Forces of the USSR
Report
On the ascent of Peak Oktyabrskoy Revolyutsii 6974 m via the northwestern wall from the Fedchenko Glacier, 6th cat. cl., by the combined team of the Armed Forces of the USSR.
Military-technical ascent.
The ascent is dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the October Revolution.
1967
Peak Oktyabrskoy Revolyutsii is one of the highest peaks in our homeland.
Route Description: СВ стене с л. Федченко
Description of the passage of a grade 6 route up the North-East wall of Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) in the Pamir Mountains in 1988.
Passport
- High-altitude class.
- Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range.
- Peak Revolyutsii, 6974 m, via the NE wall from Fedchenko Glacier.
- Difficulty category — 6B.
- Height difference — 1675 m. Route length: 2425 m, wall section — 1114 m, sections of 5–6 difficulty level — 880 m, including 100 m of 6th difficulty level. Average steepness of the main (wall) part of the route — 63° (5300–6320 m), including 80° — 110 m, 85° — 60 m, 90° — 40 m.
- Use of protection points: | Pitons | Placements | | :----------------------: | :-------: | :-------: | :-------: | | Rock | Bolt | Ice | |
Route Description: правой части ЮВ стены
Description of the ascent to the peak of Oktyabrskoy Revolutsii (6,974 m) via the North-Eastern wall from the glacier Habarvin-hach, difficulty category 5B.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: high-altitude
- Ascent area, ridge: Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge.
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Oktyabrskoy Revolyutsii, 6974 m, via the right part of the southeast wall, from the Khabarvin-khach glacier.
- Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
- Route characteristics: height difference: about 2400 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 700 m, average steepness: 45°
- Pitons hammered: for belay — rock 12, ice 34, bolted —; for support — rock —, ice 7, bolted —.
- Number of climbing hours: 44 hours
- Number of bivouacs, their characteristics: 4 bivouacs on the route, all on snow and ice.
Route Description: правой части ЮВ стены
Report on the ascent of the MAI alpinist club team to Peak Revolutsii via the right part of the southeast wall in 2013.
Report
on the ascent of Peak Revolyutsii via the right part of the southeastern wall, ice-snow route, (A. Zaydler's route, 1976) category 5B, by the team of the Moscow Aviation Institute (MAI) alpinism club (Moscow), August 21, 2013.
Moscow, 2013 Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: high-altitude
- Ascent area: Pamir, Yagnóblemsky Ridge
- Summit, its height, ascent route: Peak Oktyabr'skoy Revolyutsii, 6940 m, via the right part of the southeastern wall from the Khabarvivkhats Glacier.
- Difficulty category: 5B
Route Description: центру ЮЗ стены
Ascent certificate for Peak Revolutsiya (6974 m) via the center of the southwest wall, difficulty category, route description, statistics.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Region 3. Peak, its height, ascent route 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: height difference length of sections with 5th grade difficulty length of sections with 6th grade difficulty average steepness
- altitude-related Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge p. Revolyutsiya, 6974, center of the southwest wall 55 2550
Route Description: ЮВ кф. Ю гребня
First ascent of Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) via the southern wall buttress from the Khabarviv-Khach Glacier, category 5B difficulty.
Ascent Log
I. Ascent Class - High-altitude 2. Ascent Area - Pamir, Yazgulem Range 3. Object of Ascent - Peak Revolyutsii - 6974 m, first ascent from the Khabarviv-Khats glacier via the counterfort of the South Face 4. Estimated Difficulty Category - 5B 5. Route Characteristics:
| Height Difference | 1700 m |
|---|---|
| Average Steepness | 45–50° |
| Section Lengths: |
Route Description: ЮЗ кф. Ю ребра
Description of a Category 5A difficulty route to the East summit of Peak Revolyutsii (6930 m) in the Pamir Mountains, Yazgulem Range.
Passport
- High-altitude class.
- Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Yazgulyam-Dara valley.
- Peak Revolyutsii, East summit (6930 m) via the South Ridge.
- Difficulty category — 5A (estimated).
- Height difference 1030 m, length — 2500 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 30 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°.
- Pitons driven: rock 30/0 bolts 0/0
Route Description: ЮЗ стене через треугольник
Climbing certificate for Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) via the Southwest Face, category 6 difficulty, climbed by a team led by Khatskevich I. G.
Ascent Passport
I. Class of ascent — high-altitude. 2. Region of ascent, ridge — Pamir, Yazgulem ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) via the south-west wall through the triangle. 4. Proposed category of difficulty — 6. 5. Characteristics of the route: altitude difference length of sections with 5–6 difficulty rating average steepness of the wall 6. Number of pitons driven: rock pitons — 357, ice screws — baling hooks —