ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Terskey-Ala-Too ridge, Karakol region.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their altitudes: ascent to Peak Jigit via the western ridge (5170 m).
4. Ascent description: altitude difference 1170 m, average steepness — 34°, route length — 2650 m.
5. Pitons used: rock — 19, ice — 8, bolted — (dash).
6. Total climbing hours — 13.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
   • 1st — western ridge, in a "Pamirka" tent.
   • 2nd — on a plateau, in a "Pamirka" tent.

PASSPORT

1. Snow-ice class.
2. Central Tien-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge.
3. Peak Karakolsky via the Northern face through "Zmeika", variation.
4. 5B category of difficulty.
5. Elevation gain 1480 m, length 2050 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty is 1170 m. Average steepness of main sections is 60° (3800-4700).
6. Number of pitons: rock pitons 34, drilled закладок 6, ice screws 153.
7. Climbing hours - 32, days - 3.

Climbing Report

on peak Tash-Tektir (4300 m). First ascent, approximately 2B category of difficulty. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau.

Group Composition:

Zhurzdin V.I., CMS — leader

• Kalinychev B.S., CMS — participant
• Prokopenko V.M., CMS — participant
• Egorov V.F., 1st sports category — participant

Introduction

In the period from July 7 to July 13, 1976, by order of the head of the CSP of Central Tian-Shan, the group was sent to the Arashan gorge, in its upper reaches — to the Tash-Tektir gorge. The purpose of the trip was to scout a new climbing area — the eastern part of the Terskey-Alatau ridge, from the Aksuy wall to peak Sovetskaya Rossiya, whose southeastern slopes are exposed towards the Sarydzhaz gorge, as well as to make a training ascent to one of the peaks. Having left the Alatoo tourist center, the group reached Lake Ala-Kul, walked along its northern shore to the Takir-Tor pass (saddle), beyond which, along one of the lateral, relatively short gorges, they reached the upper reaches of the Arashan gorge. This journey took 2 days. For orientation, the group used the book by I. Tretyak "Tourist routes in the mountains of Terskey Ala-Too". After completing the task, the group returned to the base tourist center.

I. Climbing category: combined 2. Climbing region: Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Druzhba" 4100 m via the chimney from bastion 3 of the ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference: 650 m average steepness: 80° length of sections with 5th and 6th difficulty categories: 375 m 6. Pitons hammered: rock pitons: 20 pcs

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — rock
2. West Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge
3. V. Obmanschivaya, NW wall
4. 3A difficulty category (approximate).
5. Height difference 700 m
6. Rock pitons hammered — 12/0, ice — 0/0, bolted — 0/0. Used protection — 4
7. Climbing hours 12
8. No overnight stays

Sалават via the North Ridge, cat. 2A

When ascending from the "1860" fork along the Kergely River valley, distant peaks (Kergely and Koptau) initially come into view, and at an altitude of 2000 m, closer to the Koptjailyau valley, the powerful slabs of the northern face of Salavat's eastern ridge and its entire typically "table-like" massif become visible, with the spur of Peak I. Roshchin being the closest to "1860". After crossing the river and traversing along the left (hereinafter - orographic) bank of the Kergely River, the ascent route becomes visible from the right; initially, it is a very wide, arcuate couloir narrowing upwards to the right. The "3000" pass is visible above it, and to the left is the profile of the north ridge with the "Treугольник" (Triangle) gendarme. The summit is hidden behind the junction of the north and east ridges. On the left, in the lower part of the eastern ridge, a couloir descends directly towards the observer, leading to the right of the "Zub" (Tooth) gendarme onto a connecting ridge, from which a Shk/sl (Difficult climb) route is possible (we explored it but did not complete it due to several reasons). If one ascends further along the Kergely River, from the "2320" lake, the relatively even south ridge of Salavat and the "3300" pass will become visible (from right to left), from which the north ridge of Peak Pioner (cat. 2A), classified in 1962, begins. We traversed this ridge for reconnaissance. It turned out that the aforementioned even south ridge was overloaded with cornices; hence, we chose the north ridge for the ascent.

Technical description

Do not approach the northern wall of the eastern ridge in the couloir: rockfall is possible early in the morning (avalanches in spring). The arcuate couloir, approximately 2000 m long, with slopes up to 40° (scree, snowfields, outcrops of destroyed rocks), leads to the "3300" pass or to its left. The summit is still not visible from here.

№ 558 p. 12 January 14, 1986 2A category 58 ASCENT PASSPORT I. Ascent class: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Sypuchaya" 3900 m via NW ridge

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area - South-Western Tian-Shan, Chatkal Ridge 3. Ascent route - Traverse of Maly and Bolshoy Babaitag (Shakhtyor) from the south 3555 m 4. Estimated difficulty category - 2A 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 2000 m average steepness - 25° 6. Number of rock pitons driven - 7. Number of overnight stays - 8. Number of walking hours - 9

Description of the First Ascent Route to Peak Bolshoy Chimgan via the Left Counterfort of the Wall, Category 3B

February 6, 1978

We depart from the base camp located in the Ak-Sai valley at 10:00. We ascend to the Western Ridge via a Category 1B route. Upon reaching the junction of the Western Ridge and a false ridge (joining from the right), we descend with a slight traverse of the Western Ridge towards the summit. Descending into the Belder-Sai valley, we move upstream until the confluence of three couloirs. We continue up the left couloir. Approaching the wall, it's easy to identify the counterfort, which the route follows, forming the right side of the central couloir that divides the entire Belder-Sai rock massif into two parts. The route begins from a cave located at the boundary between snow and rock, one rope length away from the left edge of the counterfort. The cave provides a good overnight stay and has a guiding cairn. The entire approach took 9–10 hours.

February 7, 1978

Departure at 9:30.

R1

Skatikom

Skatikom (4450 m) is located in the Saudorosky ridge between Vologata to the west and the small first gendarme of the North-Eastern ridge of the Songuti peak in the Tseysky ridge to the east. The Eastern and Western ridges of Skatikom enclose the Karaugom plateau from the north. Skatikom's northern slopes:

• are heavily snowy
• steep From the Karaugom plateau side:
• more gentle
• destroyed

95. Skatikom (4450 m) via the Western ridge, Category 3B difficulty (A. Kharlampiev and 4