Climbing Report
on peak Tash-Tektir (4300 m). First ascent, approximately 2B category of difficulty. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau.
Group Composition:
Zhurzdin V.I., CMS — leader
- Kalinychev B.S., CMS — participant
- Prokopenko V.M., CMS — participant
- Egorov V.F., 1st sports category — participant
Introduction
In the period from July 7 to July 13, 1976, by order of the head of the CSP of Central Tian-Shan, the group was sent to the Arashan gorge, in its upper reaches — to the Tash-Tektir gorge. The purpose of the trip was to scout a new climbing area — the eastern part of the Terskey-Alatau ridge, from the Aksuy wall to peak Sovetskaya Rossiya, whose southeastern slopes are exposed towards the Sarydzhaz gorge, as well as to make a training ascent to one of the peaks. Having left the Alatoo tourist center, the group reached Lake Ala-Kul, walked along its northern shore to the Takir-Tor pass (saddle), beyond which, along one of the lateral, relatively short gorges, they reached the upper reaches of the Arashan gorge. This journey took 2 days. For orientation, the group used the book by I. Tretyak "Tourist routes in the mountains of Terskey Ala-Too". After completing the task, the group returned to the base tourist center.
Brief geographical description of the area.
Peak Tash-Tektir (4300 m) is located in the axial part of the Terskey-Alatau ridge at the point of its turn to the east, in the very "corner" of the eponymous gorge. From Przhevalsk, one can reach here through Teploklyuchenka, a collective farm resort located in the middle part of the Arashan gorge, and then on foot or with the help of pack animals. To the southwest of the peak is peak Sovetskaya Rossiya, to the northeast rises peak Tashtanbek. A trail leads to the very upper reaches of the Tash-Tektir gorge. Where the trail disappears, one should gain altitude, ascending in an easterly direction, to a small hilly area stretched along the riverbed. In its southern part, there is a small shallow lake, and a glacier tongue descends to the northern part. One should follow the right lateral moraine with horizontal areas, on one of which a bivouac can be set up.
Orographic scheme of the Tash-Tektir gorge (southern part — upper reaches of the Arashan gorge).
Route Description
From the bivouac, the path goes in the direction of the saddle between peak Bezymanaya and peak Tash-Tektir, crossing a moraine ridge before entering the glacier, to its right (orographically) edge. The ascent up the glacier is not difficult and is safe. There are no crevasses in this place. From the bivouac to the start of the route — 1.5 hours.
The route begins with an ascent to the saddle in the ridge in front of peak Tash-Tektir. The ascent is not difficult (150 m, ~50°) along medium talus and rock outcrops. Along the ridge (250 m, ~55°) to the summit. The ridge is rocky, местами заснежен, скалы простые и средней трудности.
The "finger" and the pre-summit gendarme are bypassed on the left with piton belay.
On the summit, the group built a control cairn (3.5 hours from the saddle). The absence of a control cairn and traces of climbers here suggested that the group had made the first ascent of the peak.
Descent in a southwesterly direction, and after 40 m to the right down a snowy talus slope to the Tash-Tektir glacier.
From the protocol of the ascent debriefing. Debriefing led by CSP head E.V. Podymov on July 13, 1976.
Podymov: — Group equipment on the ascent? Zhurzdin: — Two ropes, a hammer, an ice axe, and 3 ice axes, 5 rock pitons and 2 ice screws. 3 pitons were hammered on the route. Podymov: — Time of departure from the bivouac and return? Kalinychev: — Departure at 6:00, arrival at 14:00. Podymov: — Ascent and leadership are approved.
GROUP LEADER (ZHURZDIN V.I.)
