Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Central Caucasus, Bezengi region 2.5
3. Western Shkhara (5057 m) via the north face of the eastern ridge spur, second ascent of the route
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Height difference — 1157 m (3900–5057), wall length — 1730 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 660 m (3975–4570, 4780–4890), average steepness of main sections — 64–67°, of which 6th category — 320 m (4280–4570, 4780–4890), 77–79°

Moscow City Council

VSS "TRUD" TRAVERSING THE BEZENGI WALL WITH ASCENT TO SHKHAra VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE 1960 Leader: Gavrilov B. A. Participants:

• Moiseev Yu. A.
• Mosunov A. A.
• Chereshkin D. S. In July-August 1960, a gathering of qualified climbers from the Moscow City Council of VSS "Trud" was held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp. The plan included participating in the Moscow championship in the traverse class. The Bezengi Wall was chosen as the object, whose traverse with ascent to Shkhara via the northern ridge had only been done once before in 1948 by a group from VSS "Spartak" led by Honored Master of Sports Abalakov V. M.

www.alp-federation.ru

2. Group Composition and Support

The mountaineering group that completed the traverse consisted of athletes with the 1st sports category from the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering, held at the "Bezengi" alpine camp:

1. Saratov Yu.S. — group leader,
2. Beda A.G.,
3. Golubkov B.S.,
4. Daruga V.K. Three of the group members had experience climbing in the Bezengi region in previous seasons. All participants underwent joint training during the pre-camp period and completed training ascents:

• 3B — Ullu-Auz-Bashi
• 4B — Main Jangitaus via the northern edge, category of complexity in the 1964 season.

Ascent Report

1. Caucasus, Rocky Range, Cherek gorge.
2. Ekrzdyggen peak, 3160 m, via the northern ridge.
3. Proposed - 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 915 m (GPS) Route length: 1300 m. Average slope of the entire route - 35°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total: 0; including bolted: 0.

4310 — Gestola, NE ridge, traverse, 4A cat. Route of ascent to the top. Gestola through Mt. Lyalver.

• Red dashed line — ascent route
• 4A route is indicated by a blue dashed line
• A possible emergency descent route, unclassified route, is indicated by a black dashed line
• Green labels — overnight stays 4 — Chyornye Osypi (Black Talus) stop.

1. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lyalver.

Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge, in the Bezengi Wall. The ascent to Gestola via Lyalver is classified as 3B cat. difficulty.

• Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Krumkol glacier valley. KMGV section number: 2.5
• Peak: 4443 via the Southwest couloir and Northwest ridge.
• Category of complexity: proposed 4A category, first ascent.
• Route character: combined.
• Height difference: about 1000 m.
• Route length: about 1500 m, including:
  • length of rock sections IV — 25 m,
  • rock sections III — 45 m,
  • ice sections with a slope of at least 40° — 200 m.
• Number of pitons used:

Climbing Passport

1. Caucasus, Bezengi region, Ukyu gorge. Section 2.5 according to the 2013 classification table.
2. To the peak named after Yu.S. Saratov, 3711 m high, via the N ridge 43.05.337 N 43.10.797 E.
3. Proposed category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is rock.
5. Height difference is 500 m.
6. There is 1 rappel anchor on the route.
7. Climbing time — 5 hours.
8. Leader — S.A. Slotyuk, Candidate Master of Sports, in a team of two with S.V. Kotachkov, Candidate Master of Sports.
9. Coach — S.A. Slotyuk.

Report on the first ascent of Ural Vostochny Peak (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall, approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the combined team of CSKA named after Demchenko and KAiS MPEI, from August 19 to August 20, 2020. Senior coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Team leader: Nilov S.A.

Ural Vostochny (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall

Climbing details

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V) (4273 m), via the Southwest wall, first ascent, approximately 5A category of difficulty, by the team Сборная ФАСПб from July 9 to July 9, 2022. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Team members:

• Bolyachkin D.L. — 1st sports category
• Matinyan A.A. — Master of Sports
• Trikozov V.M. — Master of Sports

1. Ascent Passport

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the Demchenko-named CSKA team

To the summit of Prividenie (Ghost) 3809 m

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°2′37.71″ N, 43°16′25.86″ E) via the Northern slope First ascent, presumably category 2B Zaryaev V.V. – Galimzyanov T.R.

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader – Zaryaev Vladimir Valerievich¹ 1st sports category Address: 117465, Moscow, Profsoyuznaya str., 156, bld. 1, apt. 384.