Ascent Report on Kursaanty 3-V (3838 m) Traverse, along the 3rd Ridge, E. Chasova, 1982, Category 2B

The route was completed by the former team from St. Petersburg (now Voronezh) 2022

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, 2.5. From Kittlod Pass to Gezivcek Pass (from the north of the Main Caucasian Range)
2. Kursaanty 3-V peak (3838 m), traverse, along the 3rd ridge, E. Chasova, 1982
3. Route type — combined.
4. Height difference ~ 150 m. Route length ~ 600 m. Length of sections with V-VI category difficulty: ~ 40 m.

Lalver – Gestola, traverse, 3B cat. diff. The red dotted line is the ascent route. The blue dotted line indicates the 4A route. The black dotted line indicates a possible emergency descent option, the route is unclassified. Green labels — overnight stops.

• 4 — Chyornye Osypi bivouac.

1. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lalver

Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the Bezingi Wall. Ascent to Gestola via Lalver is classified as 3B cat. diff.

Report

of the UTС FASIL St. Petersburg team on the ascent of Mekhtygen Eastern (3085 m) via the couloirs of the Southeast wall "Nevsky Prospekt" route - first ascent Proposed category: 2A Skalisty Ridge, Caucasus Team leader: Marshakov D.A. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. St. Petersburg, 2012

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Skalisty Ridge, Cherek gorge

XXXIV USSR Championship on Ice and Snow Climbing P place, 8.221 points, August 17, 1983

Report

On the ascent of Mt. Mizhirgi Eastern (4918 m) via the left part of the North face — the second passage by the MAL "Kavkaz" team. Leader: Markelov V. V. Coach: Dobrovolsky L. N. 1983 International Alpine Camp: Address: 121069, Moscow, Skaterny per., 15 Phone: 290–23–67

Passport

1. Ice-snow class.
2. Caucasus, Mizhirgi gorge.
3. East Mizhirgi via the left part of the North wall (4918 m).
4. Assumed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1800 m, length 2630 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1110 m. Average steepness of main sections — 57°/1830 m. Length of wall section — 2230 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock 17, drilled 0, chocks 11, ice screws 157, snow stakes 20.
7. Team's climbing hours: days – 3 climbing hours – 30.5

USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1982. ICE-SNOW ASCENTS CLASS.

Report

REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MIZHIRGI EAST, 4928 m, VIA THE CENTER OF THE NORTH FACE BY THE RS "AVANGARD" TEAM, TRUD SPORTS SOCIETY. Team Leader: V.I. Grishchenko. Team Coach: L.V. Kensitsky. RS "AVANGARD", TRUD Sports Society, Kiev, ul. Volodarskogo, 1. Tel. 74-40-22. Team Leader V.I. Grishchenko: 25205, Kiev, ul. Peschanaya, 28/32, apt. 46. Work Tel. 44-10-65, Home Tel. 71-08-74. Coach L.V. Kensitsky: Uzhgorod, ul. Shumnaya, 22/23. Tel. 90-51, ext. 3-53. The heights of the summit and the start of the route were determined using a map; the heights of the bivouac sites were determined visually and by the number of ropes climbed.

Profile of the wall from the left

Photo taken on August 16, 1981, at 11:00, using Industar-70 lens, distance to object 4.5 km, N 4, H 4500.

Ascent Passport

I. Ice and Snow Ascent Category 2. Central Caucasus, Bezengi 3. Eastern Mizhirgi via the Center of the North Face (V. Grishchenko route) 4. Estimated 5B category of difficulty, 2nd ascent 5. Elevation gain — 1700 m, route length 2090 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1680 m. Average steepness — 55°. 6. Pitons driven: rock: 2; bolt: —; chocks: —; ice screws: 218. 7. Time to the summit — 23 hours and 2 days.

XXXIV USSR Climbing Championship Ice and Snow Climbing Category

REPORT

on the ascent of Mt. Mizhirgi East 4918 m via the center of the North face (route by V. Grishchenko, 1982), category 5B, third ascent by the Ukrainian SSR team Team Captain /M. M. Gorbenko/ Senior Coach /V. S. Sviridenko/ Tactical Actions of the Team. I. Deviations from the Tactical Plan and Reasons for Deviations:

• On the first day, there were no deviations from the tactical plan;
• On the second day, there was a later arrival at the pre-summit ridge, reason: complex snow conditions in the upper part of the route;

ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF VOSTOCHNAYA MIZHIRGI VIA THE SOUTH FACE (FIRST ASCENT)

The ascent was made by the group of the Moscow City Council of the DSO "TRUD" consisting of:

1. FINOGENOV M.A. — Master of Sports (leader)
2. Puchkov L.N. — 1st sports category (participant)
3. Tkachenko A.N. — 1st sports category (participant) The group was on the route from July 8 to July 14, 1963. Base — "Bezengi" alpine camp. The route (traverse of Vostochная and Zapadная Mizhirgi peaks) with ascent to Vostochная Mizhirgi via the South face was planned as a training traverse of both Mizhirgi peaks before the ascent claimed for the USSR championship, and was carried out in conjunction with the group of the DSO "TRUD" from Leningrad led by SOLONNIKOV V.A.

ROUTE TAKEN BY THE GROUP VIA THE SOUTH FACE OF VOSTOCHNAYA MIZHIRGI

The South face of Mizhirgi has attracted the attention of our sports group over the past few years. This massif, never climbed before, is of great interest. During a training ascent to the summit of Krumkol from the south, we thoroughly examined the face of Mizhirgi peak and outlined several options for the first ascent. Photographs and sketches were made.

Ascent Description

TO THE SUMMIT OF V. MIZHIRGI VIA THE N. RIDGE. Completed by the MGS DSO "Trud" gathering group. July 27 – August 1, 1962. The Mizhirgi peak (5027 m) is located in the Bezengi region of the Central Caucasus, at the center of one of the most complex ridges — Koshtan-Tau — Dykh-Tau. The north ridge ascending to the eastern summit of Mizhirgi from the Cheget-Mizhirgi glacier was first climbed by a Pelevin group in 1952. The ridge drops off towards Krumkol with a vertical rock wall, and towards Dykh-Tau with steep and avalanche-prone slopes. In the lower third, its steepness is around 70°, the remaining part is an icy ridge (40–60°) with several steps in the form of rock cliffs. The key sections of the route are the ridge exit and the pre-summit wall. The route is classified as 5B category difficulty. The MGS DSO "Trud" gathering group completed this ascent from July 28 to 31, 1962, with the following team members: Cheremisov V. 1st sports category — leader Tkachenko A. 1st sports category — participant Petiforov V. 1st sports category — participant Daruga V. 2nd sports category — participant

Ascent Description