XXXIV USSR Championship on Ice and Snow Climbing P place, 8.221 points, August 17, 1983
Report
On the ascent of Mt. Mizhirgi Eastern (4918 m) via the left part of the North face — the second passage by the MAL "Kavkaz" team.
Leader: Markelov V. V. Coach: Dobrovolsky L. N.
1983
International Alpine Camp: Address: 121069, Moscow, Skaterny per., 15 Phone: 290–23–67 Leader: Markelov Viktor Viktorovich, 194352, Leningrad, Sirenevy blvd., 16, bldg. 1, apt. 114 Coach: Dobrovolsky Lev Nikolaevich, 121069, Moscow, Skaterny per., 15, MAL
The heights mentioned in the report are determined according to KSP data and photographs.
| Section # | Length | Steepness | Difficulty Category |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 200 m | 60° | V |
| 2 | 300 m | 45° | IV |
| 3 | 100 m | 45° | V |
| 4 | 40 m | 60° | V |
| 5 | 160 m | 50° | V |
| 6 | 60 m | 40° | IV |
| 7 | 180 m | 50° | V |
| 8 | 540 m | 50° | V |
| 9 | 15 m | 70° | V |
| 10 | 160 m | 40° | IV |
| 11 | 180 m | 40° | IV |
| 12 | 400 m | 20° | II |
Total for ascent: 23 h 30 min. Total for the day: 14:00, August 14, 1983 Total for the day: 9:30, August 13, 1983
Route Description by Sections
R0. Snow Avalanche Cone
300 m, 30°. Snow avalanche cone with a bergschrund. Hard snow. Crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge.
R1. First Rocky Belt
200 m, 60°. First rocky belt. Passage through ice couloirs and gullies between rocky islands. Movement on ice, piton belay.
R2. Ice Slope
300 m, 45°. Ice slope, partly covered with a thin (up to 10 cm) layer of snow. Belay via ice screws.
R3. Diagonal Traverse across the Ice Slope
100 m, 45°. Diagonal traverse across the ice slope (partly with a snow layer up to 10 cm) towards an ice gully. Belay via ice screws.
R4. Ice Gully
40 m, 60°. Ice gully. Icy ice. Movement with "Aye-fl" ( likely "ice axe"). Belay via ice screws.
R5. Upper Part of the Ice Gully
160 m, 50°. Upper part of the ice gully. Partly covered with a thin layer of snow. Belay via ice screws and ice axe.
R6. Roof of the Right Ice Drop
60 m, 40°. Roof of the right ice drop. Crossing a bergschrund in the upper part via snow bridges. Belay via ice screws and ice axe.
R7. Ice Couloir
180 m, 50°. Ice couloir. Passage under the cover of the left rocky ridge. Belay via ice screws.
R8. Ice Slope
540 m, 50°. Ice slope. Exit under the upper rocky belt. Ice partly covered with a thin (up to 10 cm) layer of loose snow. Footing is poor. Belay via ice screws.
R9. Rocks
15 m, 70°. Rocks covered with flow ice. Belay via rock pitons.
R10. Snow Couloir
160 m, 40°. Snow couloir. Deep, loose snow. Belay via ice axes.
R11. Snow Slope
180 m, 40°. Snow slope leading to the summit ridge. Loose snow. Movement at an angle of 60° to the vertical, towards the left end of the slope. Ice in the upper part. Belay via ice axe and ice screws.
R12. Summit Ridge
400–500 m, 15–25°. Summit ridge. Snow. Simultaneous movement.