2B on Maly Zamok, Dugoba, Pamir-Alai. Description

The route to the summit Maly Zamok, 3rd ascent, is categorized as 2B, via the South wall and East ridge, Pamir-Alai, Dugoba. 1st ascent - Bobrov Alexey (Yekaterinburg) +1, May 2012. The approach from the Dugoba alpine camp is similar to the 2A route on M. Zamok via the SE slope and E ridge (classifier section 5.1.1. #31). After the "crossroads of three couloirs," we follow the trail towards the 2A route for 300 m. After 300 m, the trail to 2A turns right onto the ridge, and we go left (a cairn is laid) under the wall. The landmark is a dry tree on the ridge slightly to the right of the start of the route and a large stone plug - directly on the route line. We move left along the scree slope, bypass the rock outcrops, and enter the right onto a ledge under the start of the route. The approach takes 2-3 hours, overall 20-30 minutes less than to the start of 2A. The landmark is a large green arch, from which the route begins (a station on the arch), along the inner corner.

Dgoba alpine camp area, Pamir-Alay

"Krestyanka" peak 4200 m 4150

Description

Route along the right ridge of the Eastern wall by the seminar group of the Pamir-Alay region tourist club (approximately 35 km of trails)

• Guzeev V.V. — 1st category — leader
• Kudinov N.S. — 1st category — participant
• Markov A.V. — 2nd category — participant
• Plokhotny V.V. — 2nd category — participant Public rescue team of the Pamir-Alay region tourist club

Ascent made on Peak "Krugozor" (conditionally) 4000 m

1. Class: Technical
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay
3. Ascent route: p. 4000 m (Krugozor) via the northern ridge
4. Ascent characteristics: Elevation gain 600 m. Length of difficult sections 200–200 m
5. Pitons driven: rock 16 pcs.
6. Number of climbing days: 1
7. Number of climbing hours: 12
8. Number of nights: —
9. Team name: s/k "Polytechnic"

ASCENT PASS

1. Class: rock
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge
3. Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South face
4. Difficulty category: 5B (2nd)
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 1020 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 910 m
   • average steepness: 65°
6. Pitons used:

Report

on the ascent to Mashalyan peak via the South wall, category 5B (third ascent)

SKA UralVO Team:

1. Mikhailov A.N. — team leader and coach, Master of Sports
2. Evsyukov G.K. — deputy leader, Master of Sports
3. Povolotsky V.Yu. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
4. Kharitonov A.P. — participant, Candidate for Master of Sports

Table

of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Mashalyan peak via the South wall

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamir-Alai, spurs of the Kollektor Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. "Novichok" 4000 m, NE ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A category
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories, average steepness
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying — 8 rock pitons
7. Number of walking hours — 7 hours
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics —
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification

Ascent Passport

I. Technical Class. 2. Pamir-Alai, horseshoe of Cosmonauts 3. Nikolaeva Peak, height 4900, ascent along the Eastern ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m length of the section: 5 cat. diff. — 8 m 4 cat. diff. — 50 m

Ascent Passport

I. Technical. 2. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge. 3. Peak Nikolaeva (4900 m) via the central bastion of the NE wall. 4. Category 5A difficulty. 5. Height difference 540 m, average steepness — about 70°. 6. 96 pitons driven. Rock — 85 Ice — 11 Bolts — 0

At the 1977 Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship in the category of technically complex ascents

Peak Popovich (approximately 4800 m)

Alaisky ridge, Pamir-Alai, Cosmonauts' Horseshoe. (first ascent) Combined team of Dnipropetrovsk regional council of the Spartak Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports Petrychenko N.N. Participants:

• Candidate Master of Sports Protsenko L.V.
• Zurabishvili Z.D.
• Rybalka K.P. Dnipropetrovsk — 1977

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: combined
2. Ascent area: Tian Shan (Ugamsky Ridge)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Druzhba" 4100 m, Central couloir N-3 of the wall
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 620 m
   • average steepness: 43°
   • length of sections: II — 850 m, III — 165 m, IV — 150 m, V — 50 m 6.7 Number of pitons driven: