At the 1977 Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship in the category of technically complex ascents

Peak Popovich (approximately 4800 m)

Alaisky ridge, Pamir-Alai, Cosmonauts' Horseshoe. (first ascent)

Combined team of Dnipropetrovsk regional council of the Spartak Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports Petrychenko N.N. Participants:

• Candidate Master of Sports Protsenko L.V.
• Zurabishvili Z.D.
• Rybalka K.P.

Dnipropetrovsk — 1977

Geographical location and sports characteristics of the Cosmonauts' Horseshoe area.

The "Cosmonauts' Horseshoe" is a section of the Alaisky ridge in the upper reaches of the Topon valley, known in mountaineering practice as the Cosmonauts' valley. "Topon" means "sawdust" or "shavings" in Kyrgyz, a name that local shepherds use to describe the lack of trees in this unique valley. Indeed, there is not even creeping juniper here, which is abundant at the same altitude in all other valleys in the area. However, there are more wild animals here than elsewhere. From the Archa-Kanysh valley to the upper reaches, the Topon valley seems to be teeming with marmots. Even at an altitude of 3900 m, 250 m above the glacier tongue, these ochre-red creatures with dark-brown backs are seen at every step. On the banks of the six colorful lakes in the Topon valley, there are many arhar leks. Shepherds often track and shoot wolves that harm their sheep. Sometimes, traces of snow leopards are seen. In the mornings, the cry of mountain goats is heard, but they are relatively rare in the valley.

The "Horseshoe" forms a semicircular circus with a diameter of 4-5 km, containing a system of small glaciers known collectively as the Cosmonauts' successfully ascended by a group of Uzbek climbers led by V. Elchibekov in 1963. This traverse was repeated only once, in 1970, by a group of climbers from the SAVO sports society led by Skachkov. The notes they left behind were retrieved by the Dnipropetrovsk climbers from all the peaks except Peak Bykovsky, which they did not attempt.

In 1977, the Dnipropetrovsk climbers established 11 new routes on the northern walls of the "Horseshoe" and largely achieved the goal of exploring this interesting climbing area.

The first ascent of the unnamed peak, named Peak Zvezdny by the Dnipropetrovsk climbers, was made by a group led by Perlov M., consisting of Baronenko V. and Orlov O. This rock-and-ice route along the NW ridge (category 4) was later repeated by a group led by Toropchin V. A very interesting rock route (category 5) was established along the center of the Western wall of Peak Zvezdny by a group of young climbers led by I. Kachur.

A unique combined route (category 5B) was established along the snowy and icy slopes and frozen walls of the Northern wall of Peak Synovey by a team consisting of:

• Master of Sports Shabokhin,
• Master of Sports Kozak L.,
• 1st-class athlete Smoylovsky A. under the leadership of V. Kozinoy.

Two routes were ascended on Peak Tereshkova:

• Along the NE ridge, a route (category 5A) was established by a group led by Moroz S., later repeated by Rybalka K.'s group.
• Along the NW ridge, a route (category 4B) was ascended by a group led by Kedrya A.

Two routes of the highest category were also ascended on Peak Popovich. A very beautiful and logical route along the 1-kilometer SE ridge was established by a group led by Mazalevsky I., consisting of:

• Goroško A.
• Kovalenko A. At the same time, a route was established along the sheer Northern wall by a group consisting of:
• Zurabishvili Z.
• Protsenko L.
• Rybalka K. under the leadership of Petrychenko N.

Peak Nikolaev also saw two new routes. Perlov M., Baronenko V., and Orlov O. ascended the Western wall, while Toropchin V. and Kedrya A. ascended the NW ridge.

On Peak Titov, an interesting route (category 4B) was established along the Northern buttress by a group consisting of:

• leader — Toropchin V.
• Volkova T.
• Karagodin D.

From the Cosmonauts' glacier, a group led by Drany P. established a route (category 4A) to Peak Gagarin.

There are still at least 10 interesting first ascents remaining in the "Horseshoe". The following routes have not been fully explored:

• Western wall of Peak Zvezdny
• Northern wall of Peak Popovich
• Eastern wall of Peak Nikolaev
• Western wall of Peak Titov
• and others.

The Cosmonauts' Horseshoe is a convenient training ground for a large sports camp. It is easy to monitor groups of climbers, as all routes are visible through binoculars.

One drawback of the area is the problem of descending from the peaks. Relatively simple descent options are available only for Peaks Gagarin, Nikolaev, and Zvezdny. Returning to the base camp in the northern circus is possible:

• by retracing the ascent route,
• by descending south and making a two-day detour around the "Horseshoe" via the Devyatka pass,
• via the Cosmonauts' pass.

Reconnaissance and preparation for the ascent

On the eve of the ascent to the Cosmonauts' Horseshoe, team leaders Saprykin V. and Petrychenko N. conducted reconnaissance of the area. The area had been previously observed during ascents to neighboring peaks — Moskvich, Leningradetz, and Pal'tsy. Before the ascent, the group thoroughly examined the route through binoculars. The study revealed that this would be a very challenging technical ascent. Even after a heavy snowfall, the wall remained dark, as not even wet snow stuck to its sheer sections.

It was clear that there were practically no suitable bivouac sites on the route. Therefore, the group planned to ascend with preliminary route processing. For this purpose, they brought 7 forty-meter ropes.

The tactical plan for the ascent was as follows:

• On the first day, descend under the wall, establish a bivouac at the base of the wall, and begin processing the route.
• On the second day, plan to ascend the lower part of the wall and, if possible, transfer the bivouac to the wall.
• On the third day, aim to reach the summit and spend the night on the summit ridge.
• The fourth day was allocated for descent.
• The fifth day was a reserve day in case of bad weather or unforeseen difficulties.

The planned tactical plan was largely executed, with some adjustments.

Changes to the plan were necessitated by the lack of suitable bivouac sites on the route, forcing the group to spend two nights on the same site at the base of the wall. Additionally, during the ascent, other groups reported via radio that the southern descent was time-consuming. Another descent option — from the saddle between Peak Nikolaev — seemed too rockfall-prone. Therefore, the group decided to descend via the ascent route, using the suspended ropes. This adjustment to the plan contributed to the successful completion of the ascent, significantly speeding up the route by allowing the team to move without heavy backpacks.

Route progression

Day one, August 5. Snow fell during the night and morning, and the group was able to start the ascent only at 10:30. They reached the ridge between Peak Popovich and the hitzan in 2 hours and 30 minutes. The team member duo, Rybalka K. and Petrychenko N., processed the bergschrund, the icy slope, and a 20-meter rock wall section. They also found a suitable site for a bivouac but decided to return to the convenient overnight spot on the ridge between the hitzan and Peak Popovich after hanging the ropes.

Day two, August 6. The group departed from the bivouac at 6:00 and continued on the route. After passing the fixed ropes, Petrychenko N. and Protsenko L. began processing the wall, while the second duo removed the ropes and delivered additional equipment to the route.

Starting the wall processing at 9:00, the group managed to cover just over four rope lengths by the end of the working day and descended to the base of the wall at 21:00. Zura-bishvili Z. and Protsenko L., who had descended earlier, set up a not very comfortable bivouac on a sloping scree ledge.

Day three, August 7. The group departed for the route at around 6:00, ascended the wall, and reached the summit at 16:40. They retrieved a note left by the SAVO climbers led by Skachkov, who had traversed the "Horseshoe" in 1970.

The descent was made via the ascent route, using the fixed ropes. The group descended to the bivouac in the dark, having failed to remove four ropes from the lower part of the wall.

Day four, August 8. At 8:00, Rybalka K. and Petrychenko N. set out to retrieve the remaining ropes, while Zura-bishvili Z. and Protsenko L. began preparing for the descent to the glacier. Around 12:00, the group dismantled the bivouac and started descending to the glacier, arriving at the base camp around 16:00.

Route description

To approach the wall of Peak Popovich from the base camp, located on the left lateral moraine of the Cosmonauts' glacier, one must traverse the glacier between the spurs of Peak Nikolaev, the walls of Peak Popovich, and the hitzan (approximately 4300 m). Under the slopes of Peak Nikolaev, we reach the first snow plateau on the glacier. From here, we cross the glacier towards the hitzan and, under its slope, overcome several hidden crevasses and a bergschrund to reach the second plateau. On the ridge between the hitzan and Peak Popovich, there are convenient sites for overnight stays. The journey from the base camp to these sites takes 2 hours and 30 minutes.

Section R0–R1. From the overnight sites on the ridge, we move along the gentle glacier under the wall towards the bergschrund (approximately 400 m). It is advisable to rope up 80 m before reaching the bergschrund, as a steep snowy-icy slope with dense snow and ice begins. The bergschrund has no bridges and features a 3-meter ice wall; it should be traversed where the crevice is filled with sand and snow cones at its base. From the bergschrund to the rocks, there are 80 m of ice at 50-55° covered with small stones and sand, making it difficult to climb with front-pointing crampons and necessitating the cutting of steps.

Section R1–R2. We ascend an 18-20 m wall to a ledge at the top of a not clearly defined rock island in the lower part of the wall. We move along an inclined internal angle with a slight overhang. Climbing is challenging, especially in the lower section. We need to move slightly to the right, and two ladders are required. Rucksacks get stuck.

The rock island is not a very prominent landmark, but it is possible to set up the only lying bivouac on the entire route on its sloping ledge covered with sand. Above, up to the summit ridge, only individual hanging-sitting bivouacs can be organized.

Section R2–R3. A 40-meter section of heavily destroyed rocks, resembling "ram's foreheads". A relatively straightforward section, sometimes obstructed by stones from the couloir leading upwards to the right.

Section R3–R4. The path continues along a sheer wall with large overhanging blocks. We move to the right of the rusty wall, following cracks and crevices that clearly define the direction.

• The first ascendant must use ladders several times in a row.
• Other participants can follow the fixed rope, using a ladder and a jumar.

The 40-meter rope is barely sufficient to reach a narrow ledge located to the right of the inclined internal angle.

Section R4–R5. Along the internal angle, 12 m upwards to the left, we reach the base of a wide (about 10 m) but not deep (1.5-3 m) chimney. We traverse left and ascend 25 m along vertical walls with wide cracks. Under a small triangular niche, we can establish a belay point, where two people can barely fit on an icy ledge.

On this section:

• there is a lot of rime ice,
• there are few holds,
• we must move along cracks using friction or ladders.

Section R5–R6. Above to the left begins a series of large cornices — the boundary of the "large triangle" of the northern wall. We must traverse right through a chimney; however, the path is blocked by a 3-meter vertical wall with no visible holds.

We must:

• Ascend 4 m upwards to the left of the wall under a large cornice using ladders.
• Descend back and reach the nearest crack on the right side of the wall using a pendulum.

Only by hooking onto an anchor can we secure ourselves on the wall. Then:

• 5 m upwards along a two-tier wall (two ladders).
• Finally, we can traverse to the right side of the chimney.

After 15 m of climbing in the chimney along an internal angle with good holds and ledges, we reach the top of a finger-like projection. Further, we traverse left along a smooth wall, using a crack under an overhanging block for handholds, and then ascend right-upwards 6-7 m to a ledge resembling a miniature ridge. Here, we can establish a belay point, sitting on a rope or astride the ridge. Two meters below, in a small niche with a ledge, a control cairn is left.

Section R6–R7. Above, a section of the route not more than 30 m is visible — a whole cascade of cornices blocks the path. The character of the rocks changes here. We encounter marbleized limestones forming smoothed, rounded relief features made of coarse-grained material. Often, we find sections with very brittle rocks. We must move:

• along cracks and crevices,
• using zal'tsug (a type of climbing technique),
• employing ladders.

After advancing 5 m vertically upwards along a crack, we must traverse right across a smoothed columnar rib. Here, a piton and a ladder are necessary. Drilling a hole in the rock takes a long time, and the piton does not inspire confidence as a reliable anchor.

Another 4 m of climbing of moderate difficulty leads us under a convex monolithic mirror with a horizontal chip at the base. We traverse left on friction, holding onto the chip with our hands, and enter a narrow chimney. In the chimney, it is impossible to place a piton; the walls are smoothed, and climbing is very challenging. The upper part of the chimney is slightly overhanging, but a small, convenient handhold helps. Before entering the chimney, it is advisable to rest in a ladder.

Section R7–R8. If a partner provides support, a tall person can reach the beginning of a vertical crack in a slightly overhanging wall. The crack appears to be blind, but any piton, even an ice screw, can be fully embedded in it. On the 6-meter section with an overhanging wall, it is necessary to use a ladder at least four times, as free climbing allows us to ascend no more than 1.5-2 m. Then, we traverse left 5 m along a weakly expressed ledge across a rock rib. Behind the rib, there is a small internal angle with an almost horizontal platform that can accommodate one participant. Here, it is advisable to establish an intermediate belay point, as even a double rope gets stuck, and the next section is challenging.

Section R8–R9. We continue left 4-5 m to the next rib, reaching an 85° wall with an inclined crack.

Further:

• To the left, there is a steep, icy groove cut off by large cornices.
• We must ascend the wall along an inclined crack right-upwards 6 m (two ladders).
• The path is clearly defined by the possibility of placing a piton for protection.

We reach a weakly expressed, slightly overhanging chimney. The rocks are wet and brittle. We ascend the chimney 7 m using ladders.

The rocks take ice screws well. After the chimney, we ascend a sheer 2-meter wall to reach a 60° smooth slab. To the left and above the slab, there are large cornices; the path continues right, where a series of large blocks with small ledges is visible behind a widening chimney. At the base of the slab, there are several cavities that allow us to approach the chimney. There is also a short (about 1 m) slit for a leaf piton. However, the traverse to the right can only be made 2.5-3 m higher. From a ladder hung on a piton, we can create a small ledge for a foothold. Balancing on the ledge and holding onto handholds using friction, we can step over the chimney. Ten to twelve meters further, on one of the ledges, we can establish a comfortable belay point.

This section is one of the most challenging on the route due to its technical complexity and psychological load. The leading climber is not visible from below, and sound signals are also impractical due to the sound being deflected.

Section R9–R10. Further right-upwards 18-20 m along blocks and snow-covered ledges under a 70° groove with rime ice. Upwards along the angle formed by the ice wall and the sheer right edge of the groove (two ladders and one piton), we reach the top of a rock island located in the left part of a 70° ice couloir. The couloir can lead to the ridge 30 m to the right of the summit in 60 m, but modern ice climbing equipment is required to traverse the steep ice.

Section R10–R11. We must traverse to the rocks to the right of the couloir, as overhanging blocks are present to the left. To do this:

• Descend 20-25 m.
• Use a pendulum to traverse the couloir in its narrowing part.
• Then, ascend to the right of the couloir along rocks of moderate difficulty to reach the ridge.

Subsequent participants can traverse the couloir using a pendulum along the fixed ropes.

Section R11–R13. We ascend along a rock rib of moderate difficulty to reach the ridge and then continue along the ridge to the summit.

The group descended from the summit via the ascent route, using the fixed ropes left during the processing and ascent. In this configuration, the descent to the glacier plateau can be completed in 6-8 hours.

The second descent option is possible towards the southern side. Observations from the summit revealed that 2-4 sports descents could lead to scree slopes. To return to the Cosmonauts' valley, one can traverse via the Devyatka pass or the Cosmonauts' pass. Based on the experience of groups descending from Peaks Synovey and Tereshkova, it is estimated that the base camp can be reached within 15-18 hours from the summit of Peak Popovich.

Conclusion

The route to Peak Popovich is a highly technical and logical climbing route that requires a group to employ their entire arsenal of mountaineering techniques.

The route is replete with sections of the highest category of difficulty, with virtually no sections below category 4. The relatively short (just over 500 m) length of the technically complex part of the route does not allow it to be classified as category 6, although most sections correspond to the level of category 6.

To date, the participants have accumulated over 30 ascents of category 5, but none can compare to the Northern wall of Peak Popovich.

The group unanimously evaluates the route as category 5B and believes that it can be recommended as a qualifying route for category 5B.

Climbing leader Petrychenko N.N.