Dgoba alpine camp area, Pamir-Alay

"Krestyanka" peak 4200 m 4150

Description

Route along the right ridge of the Eastern wall by the seminar group of the Pamir-Alay region tourist club (approximately 35 km of trails)

• Guzeev V.V. — 1st category — leader
• Kudinov N.S. — 1st category — participant
• Markov A.V. — 2nd category — participant
• Plokhotny V.V. — 2nd category — participant

Public rescue team of the Pamir-Alay region tourist club Coach — CMS Lukashovich G.A.

Route description

"Krestyanka" peak, elevation 4200 m, is located in the Pamir-Alay range, Dgoba alpine camp area.

From Dgoba alpine camp, the approach to "Krestyanka" peak goes along the left side of the Dgoba river; reaching the first confluence, we make our way to the bivouac at 2nd confluence — 2–2.5 hours. From the bivouac, passing through a canyon, we enter the Ak-Tash gorge. We follow the well-trodden path to "Nizhnie Ak-Tashskie" bivouac — 1.5 hours.

Leaving the bivouac at 7:00, crossing the Ak-Tash river, and traversing the scree slopes, we approach a wide couloir that turns into slabs in its upper part. Here, we rope up and ascend snow-covered slabs for 80–100 m until we reach the start of the route.

The route begins and proceeds along the broken rocks visible on the left; rocks of moderate steepness (3 pitons hammered in) lead to a destroyed rib, which takes us to a ledge with scree. Belay via outcrops, rocks are broken, 40 m, 45° steepness. On the ledge, to the right, a intermediate cairn was set up.

From the right, we approach the first "gendarme". It is climbed with piton belay, 85° steepness, 10–13 m long (2 pitons hammered in). The second "gendarme" is climbed on the left, rocks are broken, belay via outcrops. The third "gendarme" is climbed head-on, belay via outcrops, 15 m, 45° steepness. The fourth "gendarme" is a challenging section. 85° steepness. Rocks are not heavily broken, piton belay, 3 pitons hammered in.

Next, we approach a destroyed, not very pronounced counterfort, 40–50 m long, 5 pitons hammered in. After the counterfort, we approach an internal corner, which is climbed along its left side. Rocks are not heavily broken, 60 m long, piton belay, 5 pitons hammered in.

We emerge onto a straightforward gentle ridge. Simultaneous belay. We reach the gentle pre-summit ridge. It is uncomplicated, traversed simultaneously, 250 m to the summit.

The descent was made towards "Dgoba" peak to the first scree-filled couloir, which practically leads to "Nizhnie Ak-Tashskie" bivouac in its lower part.

Ascent area map