Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range.
3. Peak Volnaya Spain, via North face, 4200 m.
4. Category 5B difficulty.
5. Elevation gain: 400 m, length 600 m. Length of sections: 5th category – 140 m. 6th category – 20 m. Average steepness of the route – 54°, average steepness of the key section – 80°.
6. Hooks left on the route – 2 pcs.

Passport

I. Ice and snow class. 2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. 3. p. Germogenova, 3993 m, according to S V Caucasus 4. Proposed category: 4A. 5. Height difference — 513 m. Length of sections with 4th category difficulty — 155 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 51°. 6. Number of ice screws used for belay — 76. 7. Moving time — 6 hours. 8. Without overnight stays.

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. Donguzorun via M. Khergiani route on the North face.
4. 5B difficulty category.
5. Elevation gain: 1618 m, length 1900 m. Length of sections:

• 5th cat. diff. 1205 m.
• 6th cat. diff. 70 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 62°

Koy Avgan Bashi

in the center of the North slope, category 3B, first ascent AGLK "Dzhailyk" Virchenko Yu.P. — CMS Skornyakov A.N. — CMS Senior coach — Popov V.P.

Route Description

The route goes along the snow-ice slope, lying between rocky outcrops straight up to the snow pre-summit. Then from the pre-summit along the ridge in the southern direction to the summit Koy-Avgan. The beginning of the route is near the right side of the bergschrund crossing the base of the North slope. After overcoming the bergschrund, move straight up the snow-ice slope towards the saddle between two rocky outcrops. Along the left side of the lower rocky outcrop. The average steepness is 30°. The length of this section is 800 m. From the saddle between the outcrops, move straight up along the right side of the upper rocky outcrop towards the pre-summit. In this area, the slope is usually pure ice with a steepness of 40°–45°. The length of this section is 400 m. Belay through ice screws.

4. Proposed difficulty category 2B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 500 m, average steepness 35°, section lengths: I — 300 m, II — 250 m, III — 300 m, IV — — m, V — — m, VI — — m. 6. Pitons hammered in: for belay, for creating I.T.O.: — rock: 0 — ice: 34 — bolt: 0

318. Leyrag via the North Face (combined route, L. Kensitsky, category 3B difficulty, fig. 32, 43). From the moraine (point 316) follow the Leyrag Glacier to the foot of the central part of Leyrag's North Face. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and ascend an osypnoy (scree) couloir, then ascend easy snow-covered rocks of a ridge below the wall of the Lower Rock Belt. Climb a 15–20-meter wall of moderate difficulty (pitons) up to a slanting snowy terrace. Traverse the terrace (loose stones) rightwards to a rocky ridge. From it, climb up and right along the edge of ice and rocks.

Description of the Pik I Maya 4B cat. sl. route

From the base of the central couloir of Pik I Maya to the right side 200–230 m to the right side of the rocky outcrop. In its center — an exit to the ridge on its summit. Control cairn. From it:

• 70 m along the ice couloir on the left side
• 30 m along the slabs
• 100 m along the ice crust under the wall of the II couloir to the inner corner
• Traverse left 25 m
• 4th wall of the couloir upwards to the left along the rocks of medium difficulty under the inner corner of the 4th gendarme, S/3 of the ridge
• 20 m along the corner, a slab is hanging above
• Ascent to the shoulder

2. Description

Ascending the north-west slope Traversing the Sakashil-Bashi massif from East to West Leave the bivouac as early as possible (at 3–4 am). From the "3430" bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Central Glacier, ascend the glacier, avoiding crevasses on the right, to a steep snow-ice slope leading to the saddle between the "Shirma" ridge and the Sakashil-Bashi massif. Continue ascending the snowy slope towards a rocky outcrop under the saddle. Reach the rocky island and traverse left for 10–15 m along a 45–50° ice slope, cutting steps and using ice axe insurance via an ice screw, and reach inclined slabs. Ascend the inclined slabs first left-upwards (using piton insurance, beware of loose rocks!) — 15–20 m, and then right-upwards to the saddle between the "Shirma" ridge and the Sakashil-Bashi massif. Elevation — 3700 m, 1.5–2 hours from the bivouac. From the saddle, ascend a 6–7 m wall, and then right along a ledge to a rocky ridge leading to the start of the ice-snow ridge of the Sakashil-Bashi massif summit. 1 hour from the saddle. At the boundary of rocks, there's a control cairn. Ascend the ice-snow slope leading to the "Glavnaya" (Main) summit via areas of firn and snow using crampons, with insurance via an ice axe; the slope steepness is 50–60°. Ascend initially towards a snowy depression, and then traverse the edge of the depression from right to left, directly to the summit ridge. The length of the ice-snow slope is 10–12 rope lengths; the steepest section of the slope, 25–30 m long (1 rope length), is overcome using front-point cramponing with careful insurance. Continue along the snowy ridge to the "Glavnaya" summit.

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |