Koy Avgan Bashi
in the center of the North slope, category 3B, first ascent
AGLK "Dzhailyk"
Virchenko Yu.P. — CMS
Skornyakov A.N. — CMS
Senior coach — Popov V.P.
Route Description
The route goes along the snow-ice slope, lying between rocky outcrops straight up to the snow pre-summit. Then from the pre-summit along the ridge in the southern direction to the summit Koy-Avgan. The beginning of the route is near the right side of the bergschrund crossing the base of the North slope.
After overcoming the bergschrund, move straight up the snow-ice slope towards the saddle between two rocky outcrops. Along the left side of the lower rocky outcrop. The average steepness is 30°. The length of this section is 800 m.
From the saddle between the outcrops, move straight up along the right side of the upper rocky outcrop towards the pre-summit. In this area, the slope is usually pure ice with a steepness of 40°–45°. The length of this section is 400 m. Belay through ice screws.
When approaching the pre-summit, the slope becomes gentler and turns into a snow slope with a steepness of 10°–20°. The length of this section is 100 m.
From the pre-summit, move along the rocky ridge 200 m, category 3+ difficulty, in the southern direction to the summit.
Attention: at the beginning of summer, avalanches are possible on the lower part of the slope.
UIAA Scheme
Approach to the route
From AGLK "Dzhailyk", cross the bridge over the Adyr-Su river downstream. Behind the bridge, to the left near the source, a trail begins, going through the forest up the slope in the direction of Djalovchat glacier. Ascending the trail, cross to the left (green) moraine, leading to the North counterfort of the West ridge of Koy-Avgan peak. Ascend the moraine up to the lower extremity of the North counterfort. Then ascend up the scree to the right of the counterfort. To the right of the North counterfort on the North slope, there are two rocky outcrops. The route lies along the snow-ice North slope, passing between the rocky outcrops straight up to the snow pre-summit of Koy-Avgan peak, and then from the pre-summit along the ridge in the southern direction. After bypassing the counterfort, continuing to move forward, start ascending the North slope, moving in the direction of the lower rocky outcrop, first on scree, then on ice. The lower part of the North slope from the North counterfort to the lower rocky outcrop is cut by a large bergschrund, which should be overcome in its rightmost part. The route begins from the bergschrund in the direction of the saddle between the rocky outcrops.