Description of the Pik I Maya 4B cat. sl. route

From the base of the central couloir of Pik I Maya to the right side 200–230 m to the right side of the rocky outcrop. In its center — an exit to the ridge on its summit. Control cairn.

From it:

• 70 m along the ice couloir on the left side
• 30 m along the slabs
• 100 m along the ice crust under the wall of the II couloir to the inner corner
• Traverse left 25 m
• 4th wall of the couloir upwards to the left along the rocks of medium difficulty under the inner corner of the 4th gendarme, S/3 of the ridge
• 20 m along the corner, a slab is hanging above
• Ascent to the shoulder
• From the shoulder to the right 100 m under the overhanging rocks
• Here traverse 15 m to the right and 25 m upwards to the shoulder platform
• From the shoulder upwards 240 m ascent to the ridge

Bivouac from the starting point — 12 hours.

From the ridge:

• 50 m upwards to the left with a 4 m wall to the saddle. Control cairn
• On the right side to the gendarme "5"
• From it 10 m descent downwards to the left to a wide shelf
• From the shelf, bypass the "saw" along the slabs on the right side to the snowy saddle of the couloir
• Along simple rocks, exit to the summit

Descent via 3 g. through the summit of Kurmy.

Possible bivouac sites:

• On the shoulder
• On the platforms on the saddles of the ridge