2. Description

Ascending the north-west slope Traversing the Sakashil-Bashi massif from East to West

Leave the bivouac as early as possible (at 3–4 am). From the "3430" bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Central Glacier, ascend the glacier, avoiding crevasses on the right, to a steep snow-ice slope leading to the saddle between the "Shirma" ridge and the Sakashil-Bashi massif. Continue ascending the snowy slope towards a rocky outcrop under the saddle. Reach the rocky island and traverse left for 10–15 m along a 45–50° ice slope, cutting steps and using ice axe insurance via an ice screw, and reach inclined slabs. Ascend the inclined slabs first left-upwards (using piton insurance, beware of loose rocks!) — 15–20 m, and then right-upwards to the saddle between the "Shirma" ridge and the Sakashil-Bashi massif. Elevation — 3700 m, 1.5–2 hours from the bivouac. From the saddle, ascend a 6–7 m wall, and then right along a ledge to a rocky ridge leading to the start of the ice-snow ridge of the Sakashil-Bashi massif summit. 1 hour from the saddle.

At the boundary of rocks, there's a control cairn. Ascend the ice-snow slope leading to the "Glavnaya" (Main) summit via areas of firn and snow using crampons, with insurance via an ice axe; the slope steepness is 50–60°. Ascend initially towards a snowy depression, and then traverse the edge of the depression from right to left, directly to the summit ridge. The length of the ice-snow slope is 10–12 rope lengths; the steepest section of the slope, 25–30 m long (1 rope length), is overcome using front-point cramponing with careful insurance.

Continue along the snowy ridge to the "Glavnaya" summit.

• The summit is an outcrop of broken rocks on the southern side of the snowy ridge; it's not visible from the north, being behind a bend in the snowy slope.

Time from the control cairn — 2.5–3 hours, and 5–6 hours in total from the bivouac.

From the "Glavnaya" summit, the path to the 2nd Western summit initially follows a relatively easy ridge to the 1st pillar. The 1st and 2nd pillars are bypassed on the right via snowy sections of the ridge (insurance via ice axe). The 3rd pillar is overcome head-on, first up a 10–12 m wall, then traversing left to right into an internal corner (4–5 m, piton insurance, beware of loose rocks!), and then along moderately difficult rocks to the top of the pillar.

Descend from the pillar to the snowy ridge leading to the 2nd Western summit. Ascend the 2nd Western summit via moderately difficult rocks (insurance via rock features) — 3 rope lengths. Time from the "Glavnaya" summit to the 2nd Western summit — 3–4 hours.

Descend from the 2nd Western summit via relatively easy, heavily broken rocks to the snowy ridge leading to the 1st Western summit. A small pillar between the summits is bypassed on the right.

Ascend the 1st Western summit via an ice-snow slope with a steepness of 35–40°, then via relatively easy rocks. Descend from the 1st Western summit and ascend to the Uzlovaya (Knotty) summit via snowy slopes with a gentle steepness. Time from the 2nd Western summit to the Uzlovaya summit — 2–2.5 hours. Descend from the Uzlovaya summit via a snow-ice slope right-downwards (almost to the next unnamed summit).

Crossing the bergschrund at its narrowest point (0.7–1 m wide), at the boundary of rocks and the ice-snow slope, proceed right-downwards along the snowy slopes of the upper plateau of the Western Glacier to the "3500" pass. From the pass, descend via scree with a steepness of up to 45° to the bivouac. Time from the Uzlovaya summit to the bivouac — 1.5–2 hours, and 12–14 hours in total for the entire traverse. The group assesses the route as Category IIIA. Recommendations: the same as for the traverse from West to East, but regarding equipment: crampons for everyone; 2–3 ice screws.

The description was compiled by the group leader: P/N Forduy A.A.

Group Composition:

Appendix: 3 photos