- Leyrag via the North Face (combined route, L. Kensitsky, category 3B difficulty, fig. 32, 43).
From the moraine (point 316) follow the Leyrag Glacier to the foot of the central part of Leyrag's North Face.
From the glacier, cross the bergschrund and ascend an osypnoy (scree) couloir, then ascend easy snow-covered rocks of a ridge below the wall of the Lower Rock Belt.
Climb a 15–20-meter wall of moderate difficulty (pitons) up to a slanting snowy terrace. Traverse the terrace (loose stones) rightwards to a rocky ridge. From it, climb up and right along the edge of ice and rocks.
15–20 m below a couloir not clearly expressed (loose stones):
- climb 30 m up and left along steep rocks of above average difficulty (pitons) to a ledge;
- traverse left along the ledge to exit onto easy rocks;
- from there, ascend snowy, smooth, easy rocks.
Then:
- climb steep 30–40-meter slabs of above average difficulty (pitons) to an upper snowy terrace;
- traverse the terrace left to a standalone boulder;
- from the boulder, climb up and left along a smooth slab to a platform left of an edge.
From the platform:
- climb 30 m up along smooth corners and slabs of moderate difficulty (pitons) to a platform;
- then climb 60 m up an ice and snow ridge to the Northeast Ridge and follow it to the summit of Leyrag.
From the initial bivouac — 7–8 hours. The lower part of the route is exposed to falling rocks.
