Passport

1. Climbs — high-altitude
2. Climbing area — Eastern Pamir, Trans-Alay Range from the south
3. Climbing routes — via the western slopes of the unnamed peaks 6205 and 6042
4. Climbing characteristics: HEIGHT | 6205 | — 1095 m | | :------------ | :------: | | 6042 | — 932 m | | average steepness — 45° | |

Alpinism Federation of Azerbaijan

Report

On the ascent to

PEAK IBN SINA (LENIN) 7134 m WORLD ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP. HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS. July 3 — July 23, 2012

Baku, 2012

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Trans-Alay range
2. Peak name: Lenin Peak

Description

First ascent to the summit 5150 m (peak Metallurgov Urala) via the central eastern buttress Peak Metallurgov Urala is located in the western part of the Trans-Alai range in a spur running towards Peak Sverdlova, between the summits:

• Akk-Too (to the south)
• p. Nikolaya Kuznetsova (to the north) The ascent was made from the intermediate base camp at 3800 m of the Sverdlovsk jubilee expedition. The intermediate camp "3800" is situated on an old moraine, covered with grass, near a small lake in the upper reaches of the Kок-kьшк valley. The path from the base camp "3800" goes along the left (orographic) bank of the Kоккьшк river across

Description

First ascent of the route to the peak (4670 m) from the north The 4670 m peak is located on the north-eastern ridge of Pik Sverlova. Pik Sverlova is situated east of the Ters-Agar pass in the ridge branching off the main Trans-Alay range to the north. Approach to the route. From the Daraut-Kuran settlement, head 35–40 km northeast to the Tashche-Su gorge, where the base camp of the jubilee Sverlov expedition is located. Depart from the "3100" m base camp of the Sverlov jubilee expedition. Movement:

• Initially, follow a small trail northwest from the camp.
• After 20–30 minutes, ascend to a small saddle between the 3960 m peak and the pillar-like massif, at the foot of which the base camp was located.
• From the saddle, descend to the dry riverbed.
• After crossing the riverbed, ascend via alternating grassy rises in a northwest direction.
• The 3960 m and 4150 m peaks remain on the left.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE HEIGHT OF 4670 M VIA THE NORTHEAST RIDGE (FIRST ASCENT) 98 The 4670 m peak is located on the northeastern ridge of Pik Sverdlova. Pik Sverdlova is situated east of the Ters-Agar pass in the ridge branching off the main Zaalaysky range to the north. Approach to the route:

• From the settlement Daraut-Kurgan
• In a southeastern direction
• At a distance of 35–40 km to the Tane-Su river gorge

Report

On the First Ascent in Technical Class

OF THE EXPEDITION TEAM FROM THE KHAARKOV MOUNTAINEERING COMMITTEE 15th pass Led by Matyukhina L.G. Route: p. Mionku via the E slope 1982

Map of the Area

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

42

GENERAL PHOTO OF MUNKU-SARDYK PEAK. Legend:

• 1B category difficulty route
• 2A category difficulty route
• 2B category difficulty route

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE CLIMBING AREA.

The Eastern Sayan is a vast mountain system stretching from the upper reaches of the Yenisei to the southern tip of Lake Baikal. It is characterized by striking contrasts:

Brief geographic overview of the area, sporting characteristics

The Dомашняя peak is located in the south-eastern spur of the Tunkinsky ridge of the Eastern Sayan, which is a watershed between the Zuun-Khandagai and Baruun-Khandagai gorges. Its height is 2352 m above sea level. In the same spur, there are two unnamed peaks, 2693 m and 2678 m, and the Dinosaur peak, 2820 m, for which there are classified routes 2B and 4A cat. sl. The Tunkinsky Goltsy are the highest part of the Eastern Sayan. The highest point is 3226 m, located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Khairym stream. The approach to the base camp starts from the Lesnichikha clearing, located 10 km from the Arshan resort, through the Zuun-Khandagai river gorge. The base camp is located:

• on the left orographic bank of the Zuun-Khandagai river
• 6 hours walk from the clearing
• opposite the Dомашняя peak
• at the forest boundary The forest boundary here is at an altitude of 1700 m above sea level.

Ascent to the summit of "Karatau"

The altitude above sea level according to the altimeter is 3800 m. The summit is located in the Dzungarian Alatau, in its Main Northern ridge. It is situated in the gorge of the Karasai river, a tributary of Aksu, in the left spur of the Main ridge. To the northeast is a rocky wall 50°–70° with a height of 300–400 m, cut by couloirs, from which a rocky ridge leads to the summit. To the east are rocks with scree, and before the summit, there is a rocky wall 60°–80° with a height of 100–200 m. To the west and south is a large scree representing destroyed rocks. Departure at 6:00 from the base camp at 2650 m on the bank of Aksu. The path is in the gorge of the Kar-Sai river. The exit to the very summit is in the northeastern wall. Through a couloir with scree, the path goes west to the ridge of the spur. At the snowpatch, there is a turn to the south. This bypasses the northeastern wall. Further, the path goes along the snowy scree and exits to a large icy scree representing destroyed rocks. Movement along it is slow and tense. Further, a rocky ridge of about a hundred meters is passed in rope teams. The second group reaches the summit at 13:00. Descent to the south, to the "Enbek" pass. From it, the descent is onto scree in the Kar-Sai gorge onto the glacier. Return to the base camp at 17:00. The weather during the ascent was sunny, but at times a cold wind blew. The ascent was made on September 14, 1963, by 12 people led by NAIMAN (1st sports category) and KONDRATYEV (2nd sports category). The remaining participants had the III sports category and the "Alpinist of the USSR" badge. The presumed degree of difficulty is 1B.

Route Description

From the Tuyuksu alpine camp, move towards the Mynzhilki weather station. After crossing the dam, turn east along the steep slope of the moraine and ascend to the bivouac of Alpingrad. From the main bivouac on the Alpengrad site, head towards the foot of the large couloir on the western side of the peak. The beginning of the approach to the route coincides with the route to Amangeldy from the West, category 1B. When entering the narrow couloir on the 1B route, it is necessary to traverse sharply to the left and exit onto the wide talus slope leading to the base of the northwest edge of the summit tower. The approach to the base of the summit tower abuts a steep wall 10-12 m high, which is passed by free climbing. The wall leads to the C-3 ridge, then:

• Turn right
• Pass along the rocky ridge with minor difficulty
• Reach the summit Descent is via the Southwest ridge, following the 1B route category. The ascent from the Tuyuksu alpine camp takes around 7-8 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: not limited.