Description

First ascent of the route to the peak (4670 m) from the north

The 4670 m peak is located on the north-eastern ridge of Pik Sverlova. Pik Sverlova is situated east of the Ters-Agar pass in the ridge branching off the main Trans-Alay range to the north.

Approach to the route. From the Daraut-Kuran settlement, head 35–40 km northeast to the Tashche-Su gorge, where the base camp of the jubilee Sverlov expedition is located. Depart from the "3100" m base camp of the Sverlov jubilee expedition. Movement:

• Initially, follow a small trail northwest from the camp.
• After 20–30 minutes, ascend to a small saddle between the 3960 m peak and the pillar-like massif, at the foot of which the base camp was located.
• From the saddle, descend to the dry riverbed.
• After crossing the riverbed, ascend via alternating grassy rises in a northwest direction.
• The 3960 m and 4150 m peaks remain on the left.
• Three hours of walking from the base camp, the ascent via grassy rises gives way to an ascent up the steep snowy slope of the northern ridge of the 4150 m peak (it's possible to go left or right, but the slopes there are no less steep and have fine scree).

On the other side of the ridge lies a large, flat meadow intersected by several streams. The meadow is boggy. Here, you can find a suitable spot for an overnight stay.

The entire journey from the base camp to the overnight stay takes 3.5–4 hours. The elevation is 4000 m. From the overnight stay, the ascent route up the northern slope is clearly visible. The ascent is primarily on snow.

Route features:

• In the lower section, it's possible to ascend via rock formations
• Rock sections can be bypassed via snow
• The ascent begins via a snowy "tie" between two