Description

First ascent to the summit 5150 m (peak Metallurgov Urala) via the central eastern buttress

Peak Metallurgov Urala is located in the western part of the Trans-Alai range in a spur running towards Peak Sverdlova, between the summits:

• Akk-Too (to the south)
• p. Nikolaya Kuznetsova (to the north)

The ascent was made from the intermediate base camp at 3800 m of the Sverdlovsk jubilee expedition. The intermediate camp "3800" is situated on an old moraine, covered with grass, near a small lake in the upper reaches of the Kок-kьшк valley. The path from the base camp "3800" goes along the left (orographic) bank of the Kоккьшк river across a grassy slope. After 40–50 minutes of walking, one comes out onto scree, turning right to bypass the spurs of Peak Kuznetsov. After one and a half to two hours of walking, one needs to cross a ridge coming from the summit "5150" (p. Metallurgov Urala). It takes 20–30 minutes to overcome the ridge. Behind the ridge begins a black lateral moraine, which after 1.5 hours leads to the start of the route. Here is the first night's stay on the moraine at an altitude of 4500 m. When approaching the campsite, a steep moraine ridge 60–70 m high is bypassed on the right. The travel time from the intermediate base camp "3800" to camp "4500" is 3–4 hours. The travel time from the first night's stay to the start of the route is 30–40 minutes across the Kok-Kyik glacier. The exit to the middle buttress is via rocks of medium difficulty. The route follows the middle eastern buttress with a steepness of about 60°. The route starts from a snow avalanche outwash along a ledge of a grotto to the right upwards, then to the left along a crevice with snow — exit to the ridge. Along the ridge straight up via rocks of medium difficulty to reach the gendarme