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Route Description: по ЮЗ стене через центральный бастион
Report on the second ascent of the 5B category difficulty route to the summit of Adyrsu (4370 m) via the Southwest wall through the central bastion in 2008.
Report
on the second ascent of Mt. Adyrsu (4370 m) via the South-West wall through the central bastion from August 8 to 10, 2008, by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of:
- Privalov S.A. - leader
- Olkhovikov A.V.
Contacts
AUSB "Ullutau" Leader Privalov S.A. Coach Semykin B.I. 361602 KBR, Nalchik, tel. 8-8662-77-09-87 elimaso3@mail.ru, tel. 8-9272527095 sembi53@mail.ru, tel. 8-9053319763 The heights mentioned in the report were determined:
Route Description: по канту З стены
Report on the ascent to the summit Dolomit Tsentralny via the "Western Wall Edge" route, category 4B, in the Uzunkol area.
Report
On the ascent to Dolomit Centralny peak via the route along the Western wall edge ("Мечта" or "Dream"), rock climbing, category 4B, by the "BARS" team from August 8, 2020 to August 8, 2020.
I. Climbing Report
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Dusheiko Alexander Sergeevich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | Belyankina Natalia Pavlovna, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Semiletkin Sergey Alekseevich, Master of Sports |
| 1.4 | Organization | Alpclub SPbSU "BARS" |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object |
Route Description: С гребню
The route is rated as 4A category of difficulty to the summit of Lekzyr Severny via North ridge, it is combined, featuring snowy-icy slopes and rocky areas.
Fig. 26.
164. Lekzyr Severная via North Ridge (combined route, V. Martynova,
category 4A, fig. 24, 26).
From the initial bivouac on the "Morena Lekzyr" sites (point 159), cross the Eastern
branch of the Lekzyr Glacier and approach the right side of the Tot pass — the left side
of the base of the North Ridge of Lekzyr Severная peak.
From the glacier:
- overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge;
- ascend a steep 100–300-meter ice-and-snow slope to the North Ridge of Lekzyr Severная peak.
Route Description: левой части 3 стены плеча Ю гребня
Report on the ascent to Jaylyk peak via 5B category route on the left part of the 3 wall of the shoulder, south ridge.
North Caucasian Federal District and Southern Federal District Alpine Climbing Championship, Altitude-Technical Category
Report
On the ascent to the summit of Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the southern ridge shoulder (Li route) Category 5B complexity by the team from Rostov Oblast from July 24 to July 25, 2024
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Kravchenko Inna Anatolyevna, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Shchekinova Tatyana Viktorovna, CMS |
| 1.3 | Full Name of Coach | Vasilyev Andrey Sergeyevich |
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Report on the first ascent of Category 2B route via the northwestern ridge of Uzunkol peak (3487 m) in the Caucasus.
REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF UZUNKOL VIA THE NORTH-WEST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B, BY THE "SAMARA-PENZA" TEAM, AUGUST 24, 2022
1. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Klimov Sergey Alexandrovich, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Strochkov Maxim Sergeevich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of Coaches | Erokhov Igor Yurievich, Knyazeva Marina Alexandrovna |
| 1.4 | Organization | SROO "FASO" |
| 2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object | ||
| 2.1 | Region | Uzunkol |
Route Description: З стене
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Dolomit Yuzhnyy Malyy via the Western wall (4A cat. dif.) by the Voronezh Region team on August 11, 2021
Report
on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhnyy Malyy (proposed) via the Western wall, approximately 4A category of complexity by the team from Voronezh region on August 11, 2021
I. Climbing Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Danilkova Ekaterina Borisovna, CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of the participants | Dmitrienko Evgeniy Vladimirovich, MS |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the coach | Torshin Mikhail Viktorovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | VROO "Sports Alpine Federation" |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object |
Route Description: по канту З стены
Report on the first ascent of the "Mechta" route, category 5A, along the western edge of the Central Dolomit peak (3760m) in the Caucasus.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Centralny (3760 m) via the western wall edge, category 5A, made by the team of Krasnodar mountaineers August 2008
Contents
Letter to the Climbing Federation of Russia Comments on the route Ascent details General photo of the summit
Route Description: ЮЗ ребру
Report on the first ascent of the Southwest Ridge of Dolomit Yuzhny Peak (3719 m) in the Kichkinekol gorge on August 6, 2021, complexity category 4B.
Report
on the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Yuzhny via the Southwest Edge approximately 4B category of complexity by the team of Voronezh Region August 6, 2021
I. Climbing Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Dmitrienko Evgeny Vladimirovich, MS |
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Report on the first ascent of Chirinkol peak 3528 m via the South-Eastern ridge from Burevestnik South pass, difficulty category 3A.
Report
On the first ascent to the summit of Chirikol 3528 m via the South-Eastern ridge from Burvestnik Yuzhny pass according to the route of 3A category of complexity by the AUSB Uzunkol team from Stavropol on 19.08.2023
I. Ascent Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Romakh Dmitry Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | Klimonov Kirill Artemovich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of coach | Kobylyatsky Nikolai Grigorievich |
| 1.4 | Organization | AUSB Uzunkol |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: 3 стене
Description of the 4B category rock climbing route to the Dolomit Tsentralny peak via the western wall, including details of the ascent and recommendations.
M86. Dolomit Tsentralny via West Face
(rock route, category 4B, first ascent by Yu. Melnik, 1965) From the lake, head up and to the right along the scree towards the couloir between the North (left) and Central (right) Dolomites. The couloir ends at the bottom with a block of steep cliffs resembling "ram's foreheads". Ascend to a small rocky ridge via its lower right part, 150 m from the couloir. The ridge divides in half two short, gentle couloirs resembling internal corners to the right of the main couloir. From here, the starting point of the route is visible - a huge internal corner - the "Book". The ascent to the ledge R0 below the "Book" follows the terrain without visible landmarks and lacks a defined line. It takes 3.5 hours from the bivouac. From the R0 ledge, ascend via the crack with the overhanging left "page of the book". Then, move up and to the right along a sloping ledge, cross to the other "page of the book", and exit it via the internal corner onto a ledge to the control cairn R2 (strenuous climbing). From the cairn, traverse 4 m to the left along the slab, then ascend to a small ledge. From here, via the R3 crack between two slabs, exit under the overhang of the left slab into an internal corner (strenuous climbing; when there's verglas on the slabs, the middle 10 m of the slab are traversed using ladders). Ascend 8 m up the corner and then move right onto a grey slab - an internal corner leading to a narrow ledge R5. It takes 3.5 hours from the "Book". From the slab's edge, move left and ascend up and to the right, bypassing monolithic overhangs along a 10-meter narrow ledge. At its end, ascend straight up along smooth rocks (beware of loose rocks! blind cracks). Reach the next ledge R7. It's also possible to ascend directly from R6 via a hanging crack, but if it's icy, it's better to go to the right.