Fig. 26.
- Lekzyr Severная via North Ridge (combined route, V. Martynova, category 4A, fig. 24, 26).
From the initial bivouac on the "Morena Lekzyr" sites (point 159), cross the Eastern branch of the Lekzyr Glacier and approach the right side of the Tot pass — the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Lekzyr Severная peak.
From the glacier:
- overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge;
- ascend a steep 100–300-meter ice-and-snow slope to the North Ridge of Lekzyr Severная peak.
On the ridge:
- turn left;
- move 200–400 m upwards along an ice-and-snow slope with rock outcrops (cornices, "live" rocks) along the North Ridge to under the first rock section.
A steep ascent, overcome directly up the rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty. From the ascent, 150–200 m along a steep ice-and-snow ridge-slope with rock outcrops ("live" rocks) approach under the second ascent (key location) on the right side of the North Ridge.
Under the second ascent, traverse 30–40 m to the right along the boundary between ice and rocks. Then, ascend rocks of above-medium difficulty and challenging walls 40–50 m up to the North Ridge.
Along the rocks of medium difficulty on the North Ridge, exit onto the summit area of the first gendarme.
From the glacier, 4–6 hours.
Continue along simple and medium-difficulty rocks on the North Ridge with ice-and-snow ridges (cornices), snow (cornices) bridges, and gaps, overcoming II, IV, VI–X gendarmes directly, bypassing the III gendarme via a ledge with a descent to the left, and the top of the V gendarme and small challenging walls on the ridge