Russian Championship 2024 (altitude-technical class)

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V), 4273 m, via the South-Eastern wall of the Southern counterfort (V. Makarova, 1986) 5B Combined team of St. Petersburg:

• Nikita V. Donkov — 1st sports category
• Artur A. Matinyan — Master of Sports
• Konstantin A. Orlov — Candidate Master of Sports

Table of Contents

I. Ascent Passport — 3

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Object of ascent: v. Ural V. via the SE wall.
4. Proposed route - 5B category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference - 550 m, length - 684 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of complexity - 545 m. Average steepness of main sections is 70° (3600-4080), including 6 category of complexity at 87° (3600-3685); 85° (3715-3770).
6. Pitons hammered: rock 65, bolt 7, chocks 72, 3.
7. Team's man-hours - 20 and days - 2.

North-West Federal District Championship 2022 (altitude-technical class) Report on the ascent to the summit Ural (V), 4273 m, via the South-Eastern wall of the Southern buttress, V. Makarov, 1986, category 5B The route was completed by the team from Murmansk-Voronezh

Ascent Details

1. Western Caucasus, 2.5. From Kithlod pass to Gezhevtsek pass (from the north of the Main Caucasian Range).
2. Ural (V) peak, 4273 m, via the South-Eastern wall of the Southern buttress.
3. Route type — rock climbing.
4. Route length ≈ 860 m. Section lengths: ≈ category V — 550 m, ≈ category VI — 260 m. Average steepness of the entire route ≈ 65°. Average steepness of the wall section ≈ 80°.

200 198

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern spur of MGHR. 2.3.
3. Peak: Ural (Western) (4300 m).
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 45, pr. 507, p.4, 26/5–81.
5. Route character: combined. Height difference: 520 m. Average steepness: 63°. Length of sections: 4th cat. diff. — 155 m; 5th cat. diff. — 265 m; (of which 5B and 6 cat. diff. — 80 m)

Ural M via E ridge, 3B

From the "Ukyu-kosh" hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the "Golubyatnya" FSP shelter, here exit onto the Ukyu glacier, on it, keeping to the right side, ascend (200 m before) to the Ukyu pass, 2 hours (fig. 1). From the glacier, go right onto the "pillow" under the ridge leading from Ural p. to Dumala, ascend the snow-ice slope between rockfall (left) and avalanche debris (right) through a covered crevasse in the slope inflection zone and further along the bergschrund to the E edge of the "pillow". Cross the bergschrund, and then ascend 150 m up the ice-snow slope with a steepness of 50 to 30° along the rocky counterfort of the last gendarme onto the ridge, using ice screws for belay. Follow the snowy ridge with rock outcrops to the saddle under the summit tower. From the boundary of the snowy ridge with rocks, go left 5–6 m along the slabs and up 15 m along the sheer inner corner (belay via rock screws) to a ledge with a выступ. From here, ascend 40 m up the rocky couloir (attention: fragile rocks, possible snow) to the gap in the summit ridge and left — to the summit cairn. From the glacier 4–5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route, from the ledge to the saddle — "Dülfer" on a doubled 40-meter rope. To the meadow 2.5–3 hours. Hazardous areas:

• on the "pillow" — covered crevasses;
• on the summit tower — fragile rocks;
• on the snow-ice slope of the E ridge (when descending) — wet snow, avalanche danger. Special equipment:

The first ascent of the Western and Eastern peaks and the traverse of the Uralochka massif was made from July 14 to 18, 1961, by a group consisting of:

1. Ryazanov V.V. - group leader, Master of Sports.
2. Ryabukhin A.G. - 1st sports category.
3. Samokhvalov V.V. - 1st sports category.
4. Benkin V. - 1st sports category.
5. Chernov V.I. - 1st sports category. The Uralochka peak is located in the ridge separating the Ullu-Auz and M. Ukyu cirques, between the Archimedes (4100 m) and Dumala-Tau (4557 m) peaks. The elevation above the M. Ukyu glacier is 700 m, and above the Ullu-Auz glacier is 800 m. The Uralochka peak is a double-headed peak: the Western peak (4270 m) is connected by a 200-meter saddle to the Eastern peak (4300 m). To the north (into the M. Ukyu cirque) from the Western peak, there are tile-like slabs covered with ice and snow; to the south (into the Ullu-Auz cirque), there are walls. The rocks forming the massif are granites with a high quartz content. The cracks are shallow and worn out. The surface of the rocks is rough and pockmarked, resembling the surface of syenites.

I. Climbing category.

Rock climbing. 2. Climbing area, ridge. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range. 3. Peak, its height, climbing route. Tsanner peak, 4000 m, via the N counterfort of the W ridge. 4. Proposed difficulty category. 4A category. 5. Route characteristics:

• Height difference: 1500 m.

149. Shaurtu Glavnaya via the Northeast Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 14, 16, 17).

From the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-12 people), ascend via a forest trail on the left bank of the Shaurtu River, then, after crossing the Tyutyurgu stream, continue up grassy slopes in a wide hollow between a large right-bank (orographic) moraine of the Shaurtu Glacier on the right and slopes of the western spurs of the Kargashilsky Ridge on the left. Then proceed along the moraine to the upper areas at the end of the moraine. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 3-4 hours. From the moraine, enter the glacier and move along the northeastern branch of the Shaurtu Glacier (closed crevasses) towards a rocky outcrop, which you bypass on the left. Behind the outcrop, turn right, cross the heavily crevassed northeastern branch, and then reach the moraine at the foot of the western ridge of Shaurtu Glavnaya peak. Set up a base camp on the moraine. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 5-6 hours. From the moraine, on the right side of the northeastern branch of the Shaurtu Glacier (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Shaurtu massif, located between the Glavnaya and Severny peaks. From the glacier, pass over the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend 200-250 meters up an icy-snowy slope (avalanche risk, belay required) to the saddle of the Shaurtu massif. On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snowy northeast ridge (cornices) to the first pillar. Overcome the pillar via easy ridge rocks. Then, along the snowy, sometimes sharp (cornices) 300-400-meter northeast ridge (cornices, belay required) and easy snowy rocks, reach the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya. From the base camp, it takes 5-6 hours.

ASCENT TO SHAURTU PEAK FROM THE SOUTH VIA THE COULISSE

The Shaurtu peak is located in the Kargashilsky ridge, which separates the Chegem and Cherek-Bezengi valleys. The height of the peak is 4303 m. The route to Shaurtu peak from the south was classified in 1959 as a 2B category of difficulty. The route is combined. Route Description Day 1. From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, the path goes along the right-bank (orographically) moraine of the Bezengi glacier to Missees-Kosh. Then you need to descend along the trail to the glacier and move up the glacier, gradually crossing it, to reach the stream flowing from the glacier's cirque, opposite Missees-Kosh. The second stream flows from the cirque of the Salynan glacier. From the Bezengi glacier, you need to ascend to the left (orographically) moraine to the right of the stream. Further, the path goes along the stream, to the "ram's foreheads," here you should cross the stream and move up the left (in the direction of travel) side of the stream. To the first "ram's foreheads," you should again cross to the right (in the direction of travel) side of the stream and ascend first through the grass, and then through the talus in the direction of the glacier's tongue. At the point where the glacier flattens, there is a convenient camping spot. The journey from the camp takes 4-5 hours. Day 2.

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: