149. Shaurtu Glavnaya via the Northeast Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 14, 16, 17).

From the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-12 people), ascend via a forest trail on the left bank of the Shaurtu River, then, after crossing the Tyutyurgu stream, continue up grassy slopes in a wide hollow between a large right-bank (orographic) moraine of the Shaurtu Glacier on the right and slopes of the western spurs of the Kargashilsky Ridge on the left. Then proceed along the moraine to the upper areas at the end of the moraine. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 3-4 hours.

From the moraine, enter the glacier and move along the northeastern branch of the Shaurtu Glacier (closed crevasses) towards a rocky outcrop, which you bypass on the left. Behind the outcrop, turn right, cross the heavily crevassed northeastern branch, and then reach the moraine at the foot of the western ridge of Shaurtu Glavnaya peak. Set up a base camp on the moraine. From the "Chegem" tourist base, it takes 5-6 hours.

From the moraine, on the right side of the northeastern branch of the Shaurtu Glacier (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Shaurtu massif, located between the Glavnaya and Severny peaks.

From the glacier, pass over the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend 200-250 meters up an icy-snowy slope (avalanche risk, belay required) to the saddle of the Shaurtu massif.

On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snowy northeast ridge (cornices) to the first pillar. Overcome the pillar via easy ridge rocks. Then, along the snowy, sometimes sharp (cornices) 300-400-meter northeast ridge (cornices, belay required) and easy snowy rocks, reach the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya. From the base camp, it takes 5-6 hours.