Antikainen (4000 m)

Ascent via the southern ridge — Cat. 1B

The summit of Antikainen is located on the main ridge of the Malo-Almatinsky spur between the summits of Otechestvennoy Voyny and Manshuk Mametova. From the Mynzhilki weather station, cross the Malaya Almatinka river and, bypassing the ancient moraines of the Manshuk Mametova glacier, then the western ridge of Antikainen, move along its foot, gradually gaining altitude. Ascend via the lateral moraine of the Mayakovsky glacier to the last couloir on the southern slope of the western ridge. Ascend the couloir to its fork and continue along the right branch. Further ascent is via heavily broken rocks and scree, keeping to the left side of the couloir (be cautious!). Upon reaching the black scree at the junction of the western lateral ridge and the main ridge, traverse it and reach the main ridge. The summit of Antikainen rises 6–7 m above the ridge in the form of a pointed tower, with a cairn on it. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours. The first ascent to the summit was made on July 7, 1940, by a group of Almaty climbers led by I. Mezdrikov.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants is not limited.
2. Initial bivouac is in the area of the Mynzhilki weather station.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5–6 a.m.

Route Description

The approach to the start of the route is made via the Bogdanovich Glacier to the Komсомольский Pass. In the pass area, there is a starting bivouac. From it, the ascent begins along the northern ridge for 300 m towards the peak of Карлытау. At the very beginning, the ridge is gentle but icy; closer to the peak, the steepness increases to 35°. Here, one should descend to the ridge of the Aristov peak into a lowering referred to as the Aristov Pass. From the Aristov Pass, there is a straightforward ridge with two gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right via not very steep snowy ledges. Then, one should approach the summit pinnacle and exit to a saddle via a snowy couloir. The descent is made via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9–10 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: 4–6 people.
2. Starting bivouac: in the area of Komсомольский Pass.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4:

Peak Asker (3350 m), via the spur on the right side of the Western slope, category 2A The approach to the mountain is described in the section on route category 1B. Immediately upon entering the rocky narrowing of the couloir before the summit, turn right onto a grassy ledge. Reach the ridge and proceed along it with simultaneous belay. A bastion on the rib 90 m along the route is bypassed as follows:

• Via a ledge on the left
• Through simple rock walls Further:
• Scree
• Exit onto route category 1B via a short rock wall
• Ascend the couloir to the ridge

Bogatyr (4616 m)

1. Ascent to the North summit from the north.
2. Traverse of the Bogatyr — Kolesnik (4510 m) peaks from north to south. Ascent to the North summit from the north, category 3B route (fig. 11). The massif of Bogatyr peaks is located in the main ridge of Trans-Ili Alatau, in the upper reaches of the central branch of the same-name glacier, approaching it from the east. The northern and northwestern slopes of the massif descend towards the Pioner glacier, flowing into the Left Talgar valley. The entire massif is snow-ice, with rocks only in the uppermost part. The massif has three peaks:

• North — 4570 m

Traverse of the peaks Bogatyr - Kolesnik, 3B cat. route The beginning of the route to the North summit of Bogatyr is given in the previous description. Descent from the North summit of Bogatyr in the southern direction along the icy slope with a steepness of up to 60°, with two drops, bypassing the first gendarme on the left. The next two gendarmes are overcome head-on with alternating belay. Loss of height is up to 200 m.

Gigan (4250 m). Ascent via the Eastern Ridge — Category 1B (fig. 5)

Gigan peak is located in the Kargalinsky spur system in a northwesterly direction from Zheshtar peak and is connected to it by a ridge. To the east, a ridge with Oktyabr peak (4140 m) extends from it. Its northern side is snow-covered, while the southern side has rocky, heavily eroded ridges descending from it, separated by couloirs filled with large, loose scree resting on a steep base. Fig. 5. Approaches to the summit from the Prohodnoye gorge. Bypassing the Alma-Arasan resort and the forest zone, turn west and move along the moraine of the unnamed glacier, leaving the eastern ridge of Zheshtar peak to the left, and reach the glacier. Before reaching the ridge connecting Zheshtar and Gigan peaks, start ascending from the southern side via one of the couloirs that leads to the eastern ridge. Then, proceed along the rocks, which do not present technical difficulties, to reach the summit. The summit is a narrow, eroded ridge. Descent is possible via the ascent route. It is also possible to descend northward along the ridge towards the Kargalinskoye gorge. The ascent takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent was made in 1951 by Almaty climbers:

• A. Lukhtanov
• A. Maryashev

Recommendations for Climbers

Zhestar (4200 m)

Ascent via the Eastern Ridge — Category 1B difficulty

The Zhestar peak is located in the Kargalinsky spur system, which stretches for up to 20 km in a north-northeast direction from the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, and serves as a watershed between the valleys of the Kargalinka and Prokhodnaya rivers. The route begins from the Prokhodnoye gorge. Passing by the Alma-Arasan resort and the coniferous forest zone, head upwards towards the Prokhodny Pass. Before reaching it, turn west. From here, the Zhestar peak comes into view. Its southern side is rocky, while the northern slopes are snow-covered. Approach the base of the peak along the southeastern ridge, traversing the moraine of the Bezymanny Glacier. Continue along the talus, slightly to the right, between the southeastern and northeastern ridges without ascending to the ridge. Staying close to the southeastern ridge, overcome a steep, rockfall-prone couloir, then ascend to the eastern ridge and proceed along it to the base of the summit tower. The ascent from the southern side follows a faintly defined couloir. Descend via the ascent route or along the northern ridge. The climb takes 6–7 hours. The first ascent was made in 1951 by Alma-Ata climbers A. Maryashev and S. Kuderin.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Bezymanny Glacier.

Romana Ziasto traversing: 8th: Mine-maw, S. Tolgar, P. Tolgar, N. Tolgar, “right”, N. V. Tolgar (left — right)

Ascent from the Tagiltsev Pass, route 1Б cat. diff. (Fig. 17). The Koptau peak is located in the New spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge between the Tagiltsev and TEU passes. The path to the Koptau peak from the Talgar alpine camp goes along the trail up the gorge to the Green Glade, then you need to:

• cross two streams flowing from the Shokalsky Glacier;
• approach the lake at the tongue of the North TEU Glacier. Here is the overnight stay. From the bivouac site to the Tagiltsev Pass. The exit to the pass is via a couloir with small and medium scree. There are snow patches. Steepness is 30–35°. At the bottom, the couloir is wide, with a rocky ridge in the middle. In the middle part, the couloir is divided into three narrow couloirs. It's better to go along the left one, which is wider and less prone to falling rocks. After 40–50 m, the pass point is reached. From the Tagiltsev Pass, follow the snowy ridge to the south to a large inclined gendarme. The ascent to the gendarme is in its middle part. Move with caution: the rocks are destroyed. Turn right and exit to an inclined platform. Descend from the gendarme to the left, initially along the second inner corner for about five meters. Then proceed to the second destroyed gendarme, which is bypassed on the left. The further route follows the snowy ridge. There are cornices on the left, and a slope turning into an ice wall on the right. The ridge has three height drops. After an hour of movement, the summit is reached. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire ascent from the initial bivouac takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. The number of participants is not limited.

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Description of the traverse of the Maloalmatinsky spur section

Through the line: O. Koshevoi — Iskra — Molodaya Gvardiya

The traverse begins with the ascent to the summit of O. Koshevoi. The ascent is made along the western ridge. You can climb in two ways:

• from the west through the couloir (to the right of the western wall as you go);
• along the western wall. The ascent through the couloir is not difficult, category 1B. The ascent along the western wall of the peak was first made by the mentioned groups of U. Usenov and V. Alekseev in 1954 and classified as category 3B. While making the traverse of O. Koshevoi — "Iskra" — Molodaya Gvardiya, the group of the Kazakh club started the ascent to the peak Koshevoi along the western wall. The first part of the wall is traversed through a couloir (to the left of the couloir leading to the forepeak). In winter conditions, the couloir is filled with snow. It is more convenient to move along simple rocks with insurance.