Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Teskey Ala-Too range, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Peak — Peak Burevestnik, 4360 m, ascent route — via North-Eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 514 m, length of sections IV–V cat. diff. — 320 m, average steepness 55°
6. Pitons driven: rock protection — 33, ice — 2, bolted — 0
7. Number of travel hours — 14

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Tian-Shan, Teskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Summit — Keldysh Peak, 4430 m, ascent route via the North Ridge from Ayilama Pass
4. Estimated category difficulty: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 766 m, length of sections with IV–V category difficulty — 660 m, average steepness 48°
6. Pitons used: rock anchors — 12, ice screws — 34, bolt anchors — 0
7. Total climbing hours — 15
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 0

Report

on the ascent of Oguz-Bashi 2nd Eastern via the Northern wall, 5B category of difficulty, second ascent. Team of Tomsk Regional Sports Committee. Team captain — Sannikov Yu.V. Team coach — Dyachenko N.N. 634050, Tomsk, Herzen St. 8, Regional Sports Committee. 634055, Tomsk, 30 let Pobedy St. 3, apt. 606, Sannikov Yu.V. 634012, Tomsk, Kirova St. 61, apt. 30, Dyachenko N.N.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Teskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Summit — Pik Chyorny Klyk, 4255 m, ascent route via the Southern ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 525 m; length of sections with 2–3 cat. diff. — 680 m; average steepness 44°.
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge
3. Summit — Pik Chernyy Klyk, 4255 m, ascent route via North-Eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 576 m, length of sections III–IV difficulty category — 830 m, average steepness 50°
6. Pitons driven: rock protection — 14, ice — 0, bolt — 0
7. Number of climbing hours — 9

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 60 let Velikoy Oktyabr'skoy Sotsialisticheskoy Revolyutsii (5006) via W buttress. 4. Expected difficulty category — 5B 5. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex section 5–6 cat. diff. 620 m 6. Pitons hammered: rock 143, ice 25, bolt 0, of which for creating artificial holds — 15 7. Number of climbing hours — 44 8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: 1. Sitting bivouac

REPORT

on the ascent to the peak "60 лет Октябрьской революции" via the north-eastern edge (second ascent) 4Б cat. diff., accomplished by the group of Kyrgyz RS DSO "Spartak" Frunze, 1978.

General view of the route

BRIEF EXPLANATION OF THE TABLE

Approach from the Baitor camp to the route. The route follows a not clearly defined broad counterfort. Passable ice slope 45°, 80 m. Exit into a narrow couloir, which leads to a ledge in front of a monolithic rock wall. We move left along a snow-ice slope with step cutting, piton belay. Further, two ropes of difficult rock directly upwards, rocks are heavily destroyed. Control cairn on the ledge. From the ledge upwards along difficult rocks, three ropes. Further 20 m of easy rocks, exit onto the ridge. At 20:00, we stop for the night on a rock ledge. Control cairn. Departure from the bivouac at 8:00. Along an ice slope with rock outcrops, we exit onto the main ridge. Along easy rocks, we reach a saddle. Further, one rope of snow-ice slope, one rope of rock ascent, and the ridge continues with easy rocks, steepness up to 40°. Along it, we exit onto the summit. Descent towards the Baitor pass, further down the icefall onto the Baitor glacier and down to the camp.

Appendix 2

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - technical 2. Ascent area - Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge. 3. Peak - p. 60-letiya Velikoy Oktyabrskoy Sotsialisticheskoy Revolyutsii, height 4906 m, ascent route - via the eastern counterfort. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 900 m average steepness - 75° length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 532 m. 6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Jety-Oguz gorge 3. Peak — Peak 4062 m, ascent route — via the North ridge 4. Estimated category of difficulty 2A 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 593 m. Length of sections of II–III category of difficulty — 870 m. Average steepness 46° 6. Pitons hammered: for belay: rock — 4, ice — 2, bolted — 0 7. Number of climbing hours — 8

Fig. 57

2. Traverse of Perednyaya and Zadnyaya Chotcha (3640 m) with ascent via the north-eastern edge to Perednyaya Chotcha — category 4B difficulty (see Fig. 57)

From the Northern refuge, cross the Hokel river via a log, then follow the trail and scree to the crest of the north-eastern edge of Perednyaya Chotcha. The crest is jagged, with numerous sharp gendarmes that are overcome head-on; the descent from the last two gendarmes to the col is via rappelling (protection on the crest via protrusions and pitons!). The col offers a bivouac site. The journey from the Northern refuge to the col takes 6–7 hours. From the col, ascend 90–100 m up a steep snowfield (65°) to smooth rocks (protection on the snowfield via ice axe, on rock outcrops via pitons!). From the snowfield, traverse left along ledges for 65–70 m to a steep gully, then ascend 60 m up the right side of the gully via moderately difficult rocks (protection!). The gully is prone to rockfall! Continue ascending 110–120 m up steep slab-like rocks (protection via pitons!) to a sloping snow ledge, then traverse 100 m left and upwards to the start of the second pitch of the edge (protection!). From the start of the second pitch, ascend 50 m right and upwards via an inclined crevice, then 40 m via a moderately pronounced chimney to a steep wall (75–80°). Ascend 130 m up the difficult rocks of the steep wall to a horizontal ledge (protection via pitons!). This is a suitable bivouac site. The journey from the col takes 4–5 hours.