Sheet 1

Passport

1. Class — rock, route character — combined.
2. Region — Altai, Aktru gorge.
3. Peak Karatash, via N. side, western glacier "Tronov's pants".
4. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 975 m, length — 1400 m length of sections with V and VI category of difficulty — 195 m average steepness — 50°, average steepness of the main part (icefall) — 90°, 120 m.

V. Kzyl­tash from Kon­teyner Pass, Cat. 1B

From the camp, move in the direction of Ak­tru Glacier. Walk along the slopes of v. Kzyl­tash, following the river bed until big rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further:

• walk along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of v. Stazh­erov;
• the lake is located behind a moraine rampart;
• on the moraine — a glaciologists' tent;
• 2–2.5 hours walking from the camp;
• a convenient place for an overnight stay.

Passport

1. Class — classification application.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Peak Neizvestnykh Soldat via the 3rd ridge.
4. Proposed category 1B.
5. Height 3300 m, elevation gain 800 m, length 1600 m.
6. Pitons were not used.
7. Moving time: 7 hours from camp to camp; 6 hours from the start of ascent to the start of descent.
8. Leader: Drakin A.V., CMS; participants: Kalinovsky N.V. 3rd sports category, Klimov V.N. 3rd sports category, Patrushev E.M. 3rd sports category.
9. Coach: Drakin A.V., 1st sports category, No. 68.

Passport

1. Class: Second ascent (first ascent done by Semenov S.A. and Dumaĭskaya E.L. in 1999).
2. Altai, Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Okhotnik peak via NE ridge.
4. Proposed category: 2A.
5. Height 3100 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 1090 m.
6. Pitons were not used.
7. Duration: 12 hours from camp to camp; 6 hours from the start of ascent to the saddle to the start of descent.
8. Leader: Drakin A.V., CMS, participants:
   • Mokhova V.M., 1st sports category;

V. Radistov via the ridge from the Bolshaya Aktru glacier, category III

From the camp, move up the Aktru river in the direction of the Bolshaya Aktru glacier. The ridge of Radistov Peak is bypassed on the right. Move along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash Peak, following the riverbed until the big "sheep's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree slope. Further:

• go along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhёrov Peak.
• the lake ("Goluboye" / "Blue") is located behind a moraine rampart.
• there is a hut on the moraine.
• from the camp, it takes 2–2.5 hours of walking. From the moraine lake, cross the Bolshaya Aktru glacier in the direction of the widest snow couloir,

Ascent Record.

1. Climbing area: ALTAI REPUBLIC, Severo-Chuyskiy ridge.
2. Summit: SIBIRYAK 3400 m.
3. Route: SIBIRYAK summit — East ridge.
4. Difficulty category: 1B
5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain 1000 m
• length of 1B difficulty sections 300 m
• average slope 30°

6. Piton usage on the route: no

PASSPORT

1. Category. First traverse passage.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Surprise (N) — Surprise (S) traverse.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 2B.
5. Elevation: Surprise (N) — 3060 m, Surprise (S) — 3070 m; elevation difference — 610 m; length — 1750 m.
6. Pitons. Not used.
7. Moving time: 9 hours from camp to camp.
8. Overnight stays. Not necessary.
9. Leader: Drakin A.V.

Pik Tamma

Approaches to the summit are possible:

• from the Aktru valley with an ascent to the Maashay pass
• from the Maashay valley with an ascent to the same pass from the east
• along the Maashay ridge, traversing it to the east
• from the south from the Karagem valley The most logical and at the same time simple path to the summit is the path from the Aktru valley, the second in difficulty is the path from the Maashay glacier, the most difficult is the path to the summit from the west along the ridge, as the ascent and traverse of this ridge are difficult. The ascent from the Aktru valley is initially done by the usual route. They go to an overnight stay on the moraine by the lake, then cross the glacier to the first ascent. When reaching the first ascent, they go left, taking direction towards the visible lowering in the South-Aktru ridge — this is the Maashay pass. After passing a bit, another ascent begins with a steepness of about 35° and a height of around 100 m. After passing this ascent, a steady ascent begins with a steepness of up to 25°. Bergschrunds are encountered along the way. The largest one is at the bend at the top, where the slope gradually flattens out and reaches 8–10°. To the right of the pass point, there are rocks with a cairn on them. The time it takes to move from the overnight stay by the lake on the moraine to the pass point is 3–4 hours and strongly depends on the state of the glacier and snow.

Passport

1. Class of ascents: first ascents
2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, area of Sofiysky glacier.
3. Uch. 1–4 traverse S ridge with Kol. Leningradtsev.
4. (Uch. 4–1 traverse along S ridge.)
5. 2B first ascent is proposed (in both directions).
6. Height 3400 m. Height difference 400 m. Length 1450 m.
7. 2 cams
8. 8 hours
9. Leader: Barnov Sergey Ivanovich, 1st sports category.

Along the left edge of the central buttress of the North-West wall, category 3B difficulty

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Omot river towards the North-West wall of Oмот mountain. After 1 hour, start ascending through a couloir, heading towards the left edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress can be bypassed on the right, leading to a narrow ledge below the first key section of the route — an 80-meter bastion. The first wall with a sufficient number of holds is climbed diagonally from right to left towards a vertical inner corner, partially filled with ice. Climbing is tense, using ITO. Exit from the corner occurs along an inclined snowy ledge, at the end of which feather-like rock blocks are located to the right and directly along the direction of movement, which can be used to organize belays. The belay station is inconvenient and semi-pendant. Further:

• A crack filled with snow and ice goes vertically upwards. Climbing is complex, using ITO.
• The next wall with a limited number of holds and a small overhang is climbed directly left-upwards through a wide crack, leading to the top of the bastion. The ledge at the top is sufficient to accommodate three to four people. Further movement is possible with alternating belays; one should stay slightly to the left of the buttress rocks. In this part of the route, one should be cautious of slippery snow-covered slabs. The second 50-meter bastion is the next key section:
• Movement along a steep ledge at the base of the bastion to the left and through a crack in the wall, filled with snow, onto a small ledge below the top of the bastion. Climbing is not straightforward due to the limited number of holds.
• Then up the wall to the left onto the top of the second bastion.