PASSPORT

1. Category. First traverse passage.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge, Karakabak gorge.
3. Surprise (N) — Surprise (S) traverse.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 2B.
5. Elevation: Surprise (N) — 3060 m, Surprise (S) — 3070 m; elevation difference — 610 m; length — 1750 m.
6. Pitons. Not used.
7. Moving time: 9 hours from camp to camp.
8. Overnight stays. Not necessary.
9. Leader: Drakin A.V.

Team members:

• Gavrishchenko P.Yu., 2nd sports category;
• Mokhova V.M., 1st sports category;
• Shlyakhovoy A.A., 2nd sports category.

10. Coach: Drakin A.V., 1st category, No. 68.
11. Climbing date: July 22, 2000.
12. Organization: Barnaul Alpine Club.

Mt. Surprise (N) (Mt. Surprise (S) is obscured by the northern peak). Shot from point #1. Camera "Smena 8M", lens "10M0 T-43 4/40".

Mt. Surprise (N) (shot from Mt. Surprise (S)). Shot from point #3.

Mt. Surprise (S). Shot from point #4.

R0–R1 300 m 15° I R1–R2 30 m 10° II R2–R3 10 m 40° II R3–R4 70 m 30° I+ R4–R5 200 m 10° I R5–R6 60 m 30° II R6–R7 10 m 35° II+ R7–R8 30 m 30° II R8–R9 50 m 20° I+

Surprise (N) — Surprise (S) Traverse

From the base camp located in the middle reaches of the Karakabak river, cross the river and ascend into a small valley formed by the NE ridge of Mt. Surprise and the ridge of Mt. Karakabak.

Climb up the scree and grassy slope to the NE ridge of Mt. Surprise (N). The ridge is straightforward and scree-covered. Follow it to the "Devil's Bridge" section. This section is a narrow ridge with deep precipices on both sides, spanning 20 m. Convenient ledges allow for reliable belays for novices along the entire section.

Beyond the "Devil's Bridge":

• a small ledge leads to a 10 m wall, which is climbed with alternate belays through a ledge;
• continue with simultaneous movement and belays through ledges along the ridge to the summit.

From the summit of Surprise (N), the path zigzags westward along a straightforward ridge, then sharply drops south to a col, from which the ascent to Mt. Surprise (S) begins in a southerly direction. The key section is the descent to the col.

A 15-meter rappel is necessary along an inner corner to reach the col. It is recommended to leave the rope in place for the ascent via the inner corner upon return. Alternatively, one can descend further west along the ridge and then traverse to the col via diagonal ledges.

From the col:

• ascend a 10 m wall to the ridge;
• then follow the ridge for 30 m.

The entire section is category 2 difficulty. Movement is alternate, with belays through ledges. The ridge then becomes straightforward, allowing for simultaneous movement. The ridge leads to the summit of Mt. Surprise (S).

Ascent time: 6–7 hours. Descent follows the ascent route.