Along the left edge of the central buttress of the North-West wall, category 3B difficulty

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Omot river towards the North-West wall of Oмот mountain. After 1 hour, start ascending through a couloir, heading towards the left edge of the central buttress. The first uncomplicated rocks of the buttress can be bypassed on the right, leading to a narrow ledge below the first key section of the route — an 80-meter bastion.

The first wall with a sufficient number of holds is climbed diagonally from right to left towards a vertical inner corner, partially filled with ice. Climbing is tense, using ITO. Exit from the corner occurs along an inclined snowy ledge, at the end of which feather-like rock blocks are located to the right and directly along the direction of movement, which can be used to organize belays. The belay station is inconvenient and semi-pendant.

Further:

• A crack filled with snow and ice goes vertically upwards. Climbing is complex, using ITO.
• The next wall with a limited number of holds and a small overhang is climbed directly left-upwards through a wide crack, leading to the top of the bastion. The ledge at the top is sufficient to accommodate three to four people.

Further movement is possible with alternating belays; one should stay slightly to the left of the buttress rocks. In this part of the route, one should be cautious of slippery snow-covered slabs.

The second 50-meter bastion is the next key section:

• Movement along a steep ledge at the base of the bastion to the left and through a crack in the wall, filled with snow, onto a small ledge below the top of the bastion. Climbing is not straightforward due to the limited number of holds.
• Then up the wall to the left onto the top of the second bastion.

The next three rope lengths should be set up slightly to the left of the buttress rocks. Climbing is calm; one should be cautious of slipping on slippery rocks. The last rope length leads to a flattening ridge, merging with the right edge of the Central buttress.

Further movement:

• Along snow-covered slabs and hard firn leads under the ridge of Oмот mountain, where one should be cautious of overhanging cornices.
• The buttress merges with the ridge 40 meters from the summit.

Descent is along the uncomplicated North-West ridge towards the base camp. Time on the route is 8 hours.

Route safety assessment

The route is logical. Potential danger, apart from the rocky key sections, is posed by snow-covered, ice-filled, and moss-grown rocks and slabs throughout the route. The ridge of the buttress is destroyed in its middle and upper parts; there are many "loose" rocks frozen in ice. One should be very cautious when passing through them and organizing belays. Sections of the ridge with category 3 difficulty are also hazardous due to their sharpness and the possibility of falling onto rocky and icy slopes to the right and left of the route.

Recommendations for equipment usage

For a group of 6 people, it is necessary to have 4 ropes, 10–15 pitons, 10–15 chocks, 12 quickdraws with carabiners. Crampons and ice axes are required for each participant.

Characteristic signs of the route's beginning

The route is clearly visible from a distance, as it is a straight line from the bottom of the wall to the summit with a fork into right and left branches. The couloir leads directly to the rocks of the most noticeable, required left branch of the buttress. To the right, the rocks of the right edge of the central buttress are clearly visible, and to the left, there are sheer smooth rocks with a hanging glacier in the upper part.