Russian Mountaineering Championship 2021

Altitude Class

Report on the first ascent to Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) via the South Face route "Impromptu," approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the team from the Federation of Alpinism and Sports Climbing of Moscow, August 20-27, 2021. Head Coach: Kuznetsova E. V. Team Leader: Nilov S. A. Moscow 2021

Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m) South Face "Impromptu"

Ascent Passport

Ascent Log

1. Category: High-altitude climb
2. Garhwal Himalayas, India.
3. Bhagirathi III (6454 m) via the center of the West Face, Russian route.
4. Proposed grade: 6B cat. diff., first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1500 m (wall: 1040 m); distance: 1800 m (wall: 1110 m). Length of sections with 5th cat. diff.: 250 m; 6th cat. diff.: 860 m. Average steepness of the wall: 83°.
6. Number of pitons used: ice pitons rock pitons hooked pitons sky-hooks 23 293/210 165/136 57/11 34

Passport

1. Technical category.
2. Indian Himalayas, Garhwal.
3. Thalay Sagar peak (6904 m), via the center of the northern wall (“High Voltage”).
4. Proposed route — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain — 1480 m, total route length — 1815 m, including 1325 m of wall climbing. Length of sections by category of difficulty:

• 5th category — 305 m.
• 6th category — 920 m. Average steepness:

2016 Russian Mountaineering Championship

High Altitude Category

Report on the ascent of the Moscow Alpine and Rock Climbing Federation team to Thalay Sagar (6904 m) Via the counterfort of the North Face, "Moveable Feast" — first ascent, approximately 6B category difficulty. Senior coach: E.V. Kuznetsova Team leader: S.A. Nilov

Thalay Sagar (6904 m) via the counterfort of the North Face "Moveable Feast"

Ascent Details

1. Ascent category: high altitude

Passport

1. Class: high-altitude
2. Indian Himalayas, Garhwal region
3. Changabang peak 6864 m, center of the North wall
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty (first ascent)
5. Height difference: from the bergschrund - 1700 m, length - 1900 m. Length of sections with 6B category of difficulty - 700 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 75° (from the bergschrund to the summit). Steepness of the wall section (from 5250 to 6800 m) - 79° (from the beginning of the rock wall to the flattening before the ridge)
6. Hooks left on the route (not removed): pitons - 40 (used for descent), ice screws - 5, rock screws - 2, chocks - 3. Previously hammered hooks used and not removed - none
7. Team's working hours - 198 (including processing and descent time)
8. Overnights: from May 16 to May 30 (15 overnights) on platforms, hanging
9. Team leader:

Report

on the ascent to the summit of ACONCAGUA (6962 m) via the north-eastern ridge 4th category of difficulty (original) ("classic") from February 10 to 12, 2009, by a combined team from Moscow and Sumy. Expedition leader: Shatayev V.N. (Master of Sports, Honored Trainer of the USSR) For all inquiries related to the REPORT, please contact Lavriyenko V.V. (8 916 439-0312)

Passport

11.5. ACONCAGUA (6962 m) via the north-eastern ridge, 1897, category of difficulty: 4A

1. Class: high-altitude
2. Argentina, Andes
3. Aconcagua (6962 m), via the north-eastern ridge

Report

Teams from Sverdlovsk Region

On the ice-snow "ramp" of the East wall of Poincenot peak, 3002 m (Fitz-Roy massif, Patagonia, Argentina)

February 11, 2012

Russian Championship 2012. High-altitude technical class, Yekaterinburg, 2012.

Ascent Passport

1. Mountain system: Patagonia (Argentina). Valley: Fitz-Roy massif (Fitz-Roy). Peak name: Poincenot, 3002 m. (The peak is not in the classification table)
2. Route name: Whillans–Cochrane via the ice-snow ramp of the East wall

Report of the Sverdlovsk Region team on the ascent of Poisenot Peak Climbing passport□□ □

Route description

From the base camp in El Chaltén (400 m) follow a well-marked trail to Poisenot camp (700 m) — 2–2.5 hours. Then turn left and move along the trail towards Lago Suchiá — 1–1.5 hours. Bypassing the lake on the left, ascend the moraine to a rock cave (1400 m) — 1.5 hours. From the rock cave, move upwards for 1 hour to a visible saddle (1700 m). Here, it's necessary to rope up. Further:

• Cross a heavily crevassed glacier, sticking to the left side, and approach the southeastern wall of Poisenot Peak.
• A snowdrift under Poisenot Peak is a convenient place for ABC in a snow cave (1 hour from the saddle via a pre-laid path).
• The start of the route is under a well-visible system of cracks in the central part of the wall (start at 1900 m) — 1.5 hours from the cave. Section R0–R4:
• Length: 200 m.

Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. The Andes, Fitz Roy Massif (Argentina, Patagonia).
3. Summit Saint-Exupéry 2680 m via the North Ridge and East Face.
4. Proposed category of complexity 5B, first ascent.
5. Height difference – 500 m; route length – 860 m; including 340 m traverse on the 3rd wall from the ridge at 70° steepness; sections of 5th-6th category complexity – 760 m; out of which 6th category complexity – 240 m. Average steepness of the route (excluding traverse) – 73°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 49/11 bolt — 2/2 protection cams — 112/17

Passport

1. Technical class
2. South America, Patagonia
3. Cerro Torre summit via the southeast ridge by the "Compressor" route.
4. Approximate complexity category 6B
5. Route wall section length — 1453 m.
6. Section length from the glacier to the Col of Patience saddle — 630 m. Route length from the glacier to the summit — 2233 m.
7. Length of sections with 6th complexity category — 568 m.
8. Length of sections with drilled holes (not included in point 7) — 465 m.