34. Doppakh Eastern — Western (A. Zyuzin's combined route, 5A cat. dif.).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (4-8 people group), to the summit of Eastern Doppakh is described in routes 31, 32. From Eastern Doppakh, descend in the direction of Central Doppakh along a 40-meter steep rocky ridge to a small saddle with a summit tower. From it, make a 30 m rappel to the left, then along a ledge on the left side of the tower, exit to the western ridge of the summit. Further, along rocks of medium difficulty, ascend 30 m along the ridge to the Black Gendarme. From it, make a 25 m rappel along steep, destroyed rocks to the ridge. From here, along simple, destroyed rocks of the ridge, passing a saddle, ascend to the Flat Gendarme. From the Gendarme, descend to an ice-snow saddle. From the saddle, along a simple 40-50-meter ice-snow ridge with sections of rocks, ascend to the Central Gendarme (Doppakh-3). From Central Gendarme, descend along the ridge or ledges on its right side to the inclined northward Gendarme Tower. From under the Tower, make a 25 m rappel to the left. Bypassing the Gendarme, ascend to the saddle of the ridge. Further, along a steep, complex ridge, ascend to the Gendarme Kupol. From Kupol, descend along the ice-snow ridge to a snow plateau. Set up a bivouac on the plateau. From Eastern Doppakh, 6-8 hours. Along the plateau, bypass the large Pre-summit Gendarme from the right and, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend 80 m along a steep ice-snow slope to the rocky base of Central Doppakh. Along difficult rocks of a 50-60-meter wall, ascend to the sharp ridge of the summit and along it, exit to Central Doppakh. From the plateau, 2-3 hours.

33. Doppakh Western — Eastern (combined route by I. Suzhaev, 5a category of difficulty).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the Psygansu river bank, under the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4–8 people), to the Western Doppakh summit is described in the routes:

• 24
• 26
• 27
• 28 From the Western summit, a simple 120–150-meter snow slope of the Eastern ridge leads to a small snow plateau in the direction of the Central summit. The bivouac is on the plateau. From here:
• 180–200 m along the snowy Eastern ridge,
• then along a steep 60–80-meter icy slope to a site near the ice-snow col between the Western and Central summits of the massif.

Trapeziya Peak – 3800 m

Ascent to the Main summit via the wall of the Eastern ridge — category 4A.

Description of the ascent route to the summit

The path from the camp to the upper Trapeziya glacier plateau can be found in the description of category 2A route. Across the plateau to the foot of the Eastern ridge. At the bottom of the snowy slope, cross the bergschrund and continue ascending on snow (55°), 70–80 m, belay! To the base of a 1.5 m rusty streak running through the entire visible massif of rocks left-up-right. Up the rocks (many loose stones!) in the direction of the streak (belay! Pitons!). Along the streak up 140–150 m (pitons!) to an inclined ledge running in the same direction. Along the ledge, 130–140 m to its end (pitons!) at the level of the couloir throat — a control cairn. To the right of the ledge is a couloir — DO NOT ENTER — (stones, avalanches from the pre-summit depression!). From the end of the ledge left-up 180 m (belay! Pitons!) on rocks to a black overhanging wall under the ridge. The wall is a system of snow-ice couloirs separated by steep rocky ridges. Ascent up the rocks “Belay! Very tense climbing! Pitons!”. Behind the wall is an exit to the ridge slabs and along them to a black wet wall on the ridge “control cairn”. Bypass this wall (40 m) to the right along the boundary of rocks and a steep (more than 45°) snow patch and again exit to the snowy ridge (pitons!). Along the steep snowy ridge (80 m, belay!) ascent to the summit. From the base of the Eastern ridge to the summit is 14–16 hours. There are no bivouac sites on the entire route to the summit. Descent from the summit via category 2B route to the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. The number of participants in the group is not more than 4 people. Initial bivouac — lake under Trapeziya glacier.

Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• rope — 2 × 40 m;
• expendable cordelette — 10 m;

Uzlovaya

I. Ascent to Uzlovaya peak via Belleva pass, category 1A difficulty From Uzunkol alpine camp along the right bank of the Myrdy river to the second stream flowing down from the slopes of the Myrdy gorge. Climb to the right of the stream over scree, then over grassy slopes to a large green terrace — campsite. From the camp — 3.5 hours. From the camp straight up, bypassing the terminal moraine on the right, and further through snowy ascents, exit into the cirque below Belleva pass. Climb to the pass to the left of the outcropping rocks of the Jalpanol ridge. From the camp to the pass — 3 hours. From the pass to the right along a straightforward ridge (200 m) to the first sentry. Bypass on the right along a ledge (belay!). Further along the left side of the ridge to the second sentry, which is bypassed on the left via a 3 m internal corner with an exit onto the ridge. From here along the broken ridge to the second sentry. Climb to it from left to right with an exit onto the ridge (belay!). From here, a snowy ridge follows for 150 m at 25°. Along the left side of the ridge (cornices on the right!!!) exit to the summit. From the pass to the summit — 3 hours. Descent from the summit to the camp along the ascent route takes 2–2.5 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — training detachment
2. Initial campsite — green terrace

3. Ascent to the summit of Fil'tr from the Burevestnik Pass – category 3A

The path to the Kichkinekol Pass can be found in the description of the category 2B route. From the Kichkinekol Pass, descend to the Zamok glacier plateau and, traversing the snowy slopes below the Fil'tr summit, approach the Burevestnik Pass. When exiting the glacier into a wide, eroded gully, there is a randkluft. Cross it on the right side of the rocks – there is flowstone and snow. Then ascend on the right side of the gully (icy rocks), and in its middle part, transition to the left side, and after 50 m, exit onto the Burevestnik Pass via a steep snowy slope. From the Kichkinekol Pass – 1.5–2 hours. From the pass, ascend to the right along the rocks to the first gendarme, which is bypassed on the left along the boundary between snow and rocks. It is possible to pass it head-on. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right, 10 m away (with protection!). Then proceed through the snow and transition into an icy gully, 60°, 40 m – with protection! Ice screws are required! From the gully, exit onto a steep rocky ascent composed of slabs, 60 m. There are few ledges on this section – protection is necessary! Pitons are required! After the ascent, traverse the ridge on the left along snowy ledges, leading to a short, negative rock wall – 2.5 m. Piton required! Behind the wall, exit onto the ridge, which transitions into a snowy slope (total 160 m) and reach the Fil'tr summit. The cairn is located somewhat to the left and below, on a small rocky outcrop. From the Burevestnik Pass – 2.5–3 hours.

AADIP-CY-5ALUU 4370 m

3. Route Description

Route of ascent to the summit ALYR-SU-BASHI via the northwest ridge (4370 m) Route category 3B The summit ALYR-SU-BASHI is located in the northern Alyr spur of the Main Caucasian Range, between the Goudunov and Granovsky passes. Three ridges radiate from the summit:

• to the North
• to the Northwest
• to the South A counterforce extends eastward to the Bashdy glacier.

42. Adyr­su via the North­ern counterfort of the West­ern edge (combined route by Yu. Kuz­netsov, 3B cat. diff., fig. 5, 6). The path from the “Ullu­tau” al­plager (group of 4–8 people) to the upper pla­teau of the Se­ver­ny Adyr­su gla­cier with the initial bi­vouac on the left-bank mo­re­ne of the Se­ver­ny Adyr­su gla­cier is de­scri­bed in route 43. In the upper part of the cir­que, cross the Se­ver­ny Adyr­su gla­cier (clo­sed cre­vasses) and ap­proach un­der the slope of the ice-and-snow cou­loir on the left side — at the base of the North­ern counterfort of the West­ern edge of Adyr­su peak. From the initial bi­vouac, 1.5–2 hours. From the gla­cier, after pas­sing the berg­schrund:

• 40 m up steep easy rocks on the right side of the ice-and-snow cou­loir,
• then tra­verse 40 m up — left through this cou­loir,

¹

2. preliminary The summit of Adyr-Su-bashi, category 4A, via the Granovskiy Pass, elevation 4370 m. The nature of the route is predominantly rocky and icy. The summit of Adyr-Su-bashi is located in the northern Adyr ridge of the Main Caucasian Range. Several ridges lead to the summit, including the southern one, descending to the Granovskiy Pass. Day 1 Approaches to the Granovskiy Pass are made:

• via the Mestia trail,

8-2.4.1.173

Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from the Chipperazau Pass to the Ortokara peak

Report

on the first ascent to the Adyrsu peak (4370 m) via the South-West wall through the central bastion in the period from July 19 to July 22, 2008 by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of:

• Monaenkov E.I. - leader
• Bulocnikov V.S. - participant
• Sandin S.A. - participant

Table of Contents

• Climbing passport (Appendix No. 1) — 3
• General view photo of the route — 5

Report

on the second ascent of Mt. Adyrsu (4370 m) via the South-West wall through the central bastion from August 8 to 10, 2008, by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of:

• Privalov S.A. - leader
• Olkhovikov A.V.

Contacts

AUSB "Ullutau" Leader Privalov S.A. Coach Semykin B.I. 361602 KBR, Nalchik, tel. 8-8662-77-09-87 elimaso3@mail.ru, tel. 8-9272527095 sembi53@mail.ru, tel. 8-9053319763 The heights mentioned in the report were determined: