Uzlovaya

I. Ascent to Uzlovaya peak via Belleva pass, category 1A difficulty

From Uzunkol alpine camp along the right bank of the Myrdy river to the second stream flowing down from the slopes of the Myrdy gorge. Climb to the right of the stream over scree, then over grassy slopes to a large green terrace — campsite. From the camp — 3.5 hours.

From the camp straight up, bypassing the terminal moraine on the right, and further through snowy ascents, exit into the cirque below Belleva pass. Climb to the pass to the left of the outcropping rocks of the Jalpanol ridge. From the camp to the pass — 3 hours.

From the pass to the right along a straightforward ridge (200 m) to the first sentry. Bypass on the right along a ledge (belay!). Further along the left side of the ridge to the second sentry, which is bypassed on the left via a 3 m internal corner with an exit onto the ridge. From here along the broken ridge to the second sentry. Climb to it from left to right with an exit onto the ridge (belay!). From here, a snowy ridge follows for 150 m at 25°. Along the left side of the ridge (cornices on the right!!!) exit to the summit.

From the pass to the summit — 3 hours.

Descent from the summit to the camp along the ascent route takes 2–2.5 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants in the group — training detachment
2. Initial campsite — green terrace
3. Departure time from the campsite — 5:00 am
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people a) main rope — 2 × 30 m b) rock pitons — 3 pcs. c) carabiners — 6 pcs. d) rock hammer — 1 pc.

The route was traversed by a group of instructors from Uzunkol alpine camp — 4 people — under the leadership of Klimashin E.V. in 1964.