связка: social angle (not avalanche-prone) detour to the angle on the shelf to the right? Further — up the destroyed rocks (50 m, steepness 55–60°), then along the inclined shelf 8 m (cold rock) — exit to the ice couloir. Up the couloir I rope (45°), traverse to the right on the ice (fig. I-2) — to a short edge under the characteristic rock "tooth" (ice cliffs, chopping steps, digging). Second overnight stay. Immediately from the overnight stay, traverse to the right and up 50–60 m along rocks of medium difficulty (pitons). Further, three ropes with belay through ledges with exit to the ridge (“live” stones). The ridge is straightforward — 200 m. From here under the «ём (fig. I–3) along the wall (I rope of difficult climbing), then two ropes of very difficult rocks (14 pitons) and along the rocky couloir exit to the ridge. This is the second key section of the route.

Rocks of medium difficulty, in some places it is necessary to use iron belay. The first pronounced gendarme is bypassed on the left along inclined shelves, then movement continues along the ridge. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right along a snowy-icy couloir with rocky exits, then movement continues along the right side of the ridge. The col - before the third gendarme is traversed (stonefall hazard, iron belay). From the col, descend down to the left side of the ridge: one rope on difficult rocks into a rocky-icy couloir. Cross the couloir, exit onto a snow patch to the left of the third gendarme. From the snow patch, down difficult rocks (chimney) - one rope down and along a snowy-icy slab to the foot of the third gendarme. Up the snowy-icy slab and the col between the third gendarme and the summit (stonefall hazard). From the col, exit into a wide couloir located to the right of the summit. Up the couloir to the pre-summit ridge - rocks of medium difficulty.

From the overnight stay 3–4 ropes along the snowy slope of the gully, separated from the main slope by a section of rocky ridge. One rope on a 35° snowy slope along the gully, then exit to rocks (belay via ice axe). On the ridge, movement along the ledge on the left with piton belay at the beginning of the path! (after one rope of difficult rocks — exit back to snow). 40 m along the snowy ridge — exit to difficult rocks: chimneys 40–50° (in the upper part of the chimney — yellow rocks). The chimney is traversed with thorough piton belay. After the chimney, one rope of easy rocks with a 20-meter slab, then broken, snow-covered rocks and a gully with flowstone ice and loose stones. Belay is difficult to organize. Above the gully:

• 2–3 ropes of the path upwards along the snowy (in the upper part — icy) ridge;
• exit to the junction of the northeastern counterfort and the eastern edge. Exit to the eastern edge:
• 20 m of steps with chopping;
• belay via ice and rocky outcrops;
• from the overnight stay — 4–6 hours. Through the breaches and destructions of the eastern edge (cornice), one rope to the entrance to the gully formed by the rocks of the southeastern counterfort and the eastern edge.

(20­–30) pitches. Further, through three ropes of difficult path along the wide snowy ridge (on the right - eaves) - exit to a small gendarme formed by the junction of the southwest counterforce with the Eastern ridge of peak "Shetor". After going around the gendarme (on the right) - exit to a sharp rocky-snow ridge. The ridges are heavily destroyed. When moving - alternate insurance through ledges. Two ropes of the ridge path lead under a steep snowy ascent, resting through 40­–50 m into the pre-summit spur of t. k. "Shotor". From peak Druzei - 1­–1.5 hours. The outer route along the wall (a difficult place) is passed first along the inner corner (8-10 m) under an overhanging stone, and then to the right under a couloir (difficult insurance). The exit to the couloir is done with the help of hanging ladders, further - along a longitudinal,

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Matcha node, Turkestan Ridge.
3. Summit — peak Mushketova, height — 5300 m, ascent route via the center of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1900 m; b) length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 930 m; c) average steepness (sections 1–32) — 73°, (sections 32–46) — 50°.
6. Number of pitons hammered for protection:

Тща­тель­ной причёс­кой отра­бот­кой и на коп­ках. От места под­ход­ки на пере­вале 2 ч 30 мин. The ice ridge turns into a rocky ridge. Here, difficult climbing on rocks (40°), covered with thick flow ice. Insurance through pitons. There are loose rocks. After 40 m exit to the right to a site protected from rockfall from above. Further movement upwards:

• first along stratified rocks,
• then on ice,
• then along 25-meter rocks (60°), which is a continuation of the ridge. At the exit from the rocks, there is a convenient site for organizing insurance, above -

— Peak Kharsant (4800 m) from the OPTZ pass, 3A cat.

II — August 13, 1969. O.I. Molchardov, A.S. Mardezov, L.A. Belyaev, L.N. Shmakova, O.A. Shalya. From the OPTZ pass (the ascent to the pass — see "Ascent from OPTZ pass") an ascent up the slope and a heavily destroyed trench (variable insurance through tricky ledges and pitons). Then exit to a snow patch on the right (by the route) side of the ridge and along an inclined rock slab 80 m to a platform under a rock tower (difficult climbing, piton insurance). The further path to the summit ridge passes along the rocky wall of the peak. From the platform under the tower — traverse along ledges to a vertical rock pinnacle 10–12 m high. Ascend the pinnacle (piton insurance), then along the rocks — 2 ropes to the beginning of a large main couloir descending from the summit ridge. Many loose rocks. Ascent up the central part of the couloir (2.5 ropes) and exit to a narrow summit ridge (width 0.8–1 m). Along heavily destroyed steep rocks — ascent to the summit tower (one rope). Descent from the summit — along the ascent route to the platform under the tower, then to the right — down along rock ledges to the main couloir of black rocks, leading to a snow corrie, from the corrie — along the snowy ridge, bypassing the pass OPTZ saddle (novice climbers' descent route). Ascent to the summit from the pass — 6 hours, descent — 3.5 hours

Up the icy edge of the couloir 60–70 m to the entrance to the lower edge of the inclined ice shelf running across the wall. On crampons straight up (10 m). Further exit to rocks with ice crust. The path along complex rocks (35 m) left-up (piton, wedges) to a shelf convenient for belay and changing the leader. Then 20 meters up snow and ice to the base of the chimney. The steep chimney has walls filled with ice at the bottom. 20 meters of complex Climbing leads to the expansion of the chimney under the overhanging five-meter icicles. From this place to the left along the inclined fragile rock shelf 40 m to the exit to the eastern slope of the summit. Here the whole group can gather. Further up 40 m along medium and complex rocks to the Eastern summit. The cairn is located on the Central summit. The path from the Eastern to the Central summit runs along the ridge connecting them and does not present any technical difficulty. From the bivouac on the shoulder to the summit — 9–10 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the expansion of the chimney under the icicles. Further down — 3 ropes belaying down to the intersection of the main couloir. From the left edge of the couloir — one rope belaying down to the base of the wall. Further — worse, descent along the ascent route. From the summit: 5–6 hours. A variant of descent from the shelf under the summit straight down is possible if there are 80 m ropes. Descent from the shoulder and return to the assault camp takes 5–6 hours.

(Admiralteets), 5090 m via the "pillar", V. Bashkirov, 85. Pamiro-Alai. Laylyak gorge area 5.4.2.2.

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Aksu gorge, Turkestan ridge, Pamiro-Alai.
3. Peak Admiralteets, 5090 m, via the "pillar", Bashkirov route, 6A cat. diff. Third ascent.
4. Elevation gain: 1500 m. "Pillar" elevation gain — 740 m. Main part of the "pillar" elevation gain — 560 m. Total route length — 2840 m. "Pillar" length — 920 m. Main part of the "pillar" length — 600 m. Section lengths: 6 cat. diff. — 510 m, 5 cat. diff. — 340 m. Average slope of the route — 74°. Average slope of the main part of the "pillar" — 80°.
5. Pitons driven: Rock Bolt Chock Ice 152 1+34X 232 3

PASSPORT

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Laiyak gorge area
3. Peak Ak-su via N wall
4. Category 6B (presumably 4th ascent)
5. Height difference: 1447 m, length: 2149 m, including bastion: 1040 m and 1297 m respectively. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 539 m. 6th category difficulty: 389 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 70°, bastion is 79°.