— Peak Kharsant (4800 m) from the OPTZ pass, 3A cat.

II — August 13, 1969. O.I. Molchardov, A.S. Mardezov, L.A. Belyaev, L.N. Shmakova, O.A. Shalya.

From the OPTZ pass (the ascent to the pass — see "Ascent from OPTZ pass") an ascent up the slope and a heavily destroyed trench (variable insurance through tricky ledges and pitons). Then exit to a snow patch on the right (by the route) side of the ridge and along an inclined rock slab 80 m to a platform under a rock tower (difficult climbing, piton insurance).

The further path to the summit ridge passes along the rocky wall of the peak. From the platform under the tower — traverse along ledges to a vertical rock pinnacle 10–12 m high. Ascend the pinnacle (piton insurance), then along the rocks — 2 ropes to the beginning of a large main couloir descending from the summit ridge. Many loose rocks.

Ascent up the central part of the couloir (2.5 ropes) and exit to a narrow summit ridge (width 0.8–1 m). Along heavily destroyed steep rocks — ascent to the summit tower (one rope).

Descent from the summit — along the ascent route to the platform under the tower, then to the right — down along rock ledges to the main couloir of black rocks, leading to a snow corrie, from the corrie — along the snowy ridge, bypassing the pass OPTZ saddle (novice climbers' descent route).

Ascent to the summit from the pass — 6 hours, descent — 3.5 hours