(20–30) pitches. Further, through three ropes of difficult path along the wide snowy ridge (on the right - eaves) - exit to a small gendarme formed by the junction of the southwest counterforce with the Eastern ridge of peak "Shetor".
After going around the gendarme (on the right) - exit to a sharp rocky-snow ridge. The ridges are heavily destroyed. When moving - alternate insurance through ledges.
Two ropes of the ridge path lead under a steep snowy ascent, resting through 40–50 m into the pre-summit spur of t. k. "Shotor". From peak Druzei - 1–1.5 hours.
The outer route along the wall (a difficult place) is passed first along the inner corner (8-10 m) under an overhanging stone, and then to the right under a couloir (difficult insurance).
The exit to the couloir is done with the help of hanging ladders, further - along a longitudinal, gradually expanding crevice (5-7 m) to a small site, from where the path goes up along an inclined (30-40°) plate, местами залитой натечным льдом и покрытой снегом. In the upper part of the plate, with the help of rock hooks, it is convenient to organize insurance and hang perilla.
After the plate - a one-and-a-half-meter vertical wall, which leads to gradually crawling rocks of the ridge. Further - 3.5-4 ropes along sections of medium difficulty, alternating with rocky sections to the top of the peak.
List:
- Sections of medium difficulty
- Rocky sections
From the pre-summit wall - 2-2.5 hours.
The descent from the summit to the pass through peak Druzei - along the path under the "ezh" with the закладкой one dolpher on the pre-summit wall takes 1.5-2 hours.
Recommendations for climbers.
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Number of participants - 4 people.
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Equipment: Main rope - 2×40 m, rep cord - 1.5 m, rock pitons - 6-8, ice pitons - 2-4, rock hammer - 2, carabiners - 6-8, hooks - 4, perilla, headlamp - 1.
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Colors of bivouac sites - on the approaches: Evamenkaya axis under peak "Addidar-Shel", at the moraine lake, on the first stage of the left tributary glacier Purovetsky, on pass "A600".